Cultivate: An innovative dining experience led by chef Leonard Cheung
- Highlights of the eight-course menu include the San Lorenzo melon and cold starter – cantaloupe, anise jelly and jiu niang combined with ajo blanco
Fine dining restaurants are abundant in Hong Kong but with the world’s economy under strain from the pandemic, many sophisticated establishments such as Pierre and UWE have unfortunately closed their doors. So when we heard that Eleven Madison Park, Bo Innovation, and 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana alum, chef Leonard Cheung, is now at the helm of an innovative dining experience, we were excited.
The kitchen is the main focus as a long countertop accounts for most of the seats in the 22-person dining space, with only one communal table by the shopfront. Dishes are served l’atelier-style with only one set menu (HK$1,288) available, plus wine pairing for an additional HK$780.
Highlights of the eight-course menu include the San Lorenzo melon and cold starter that was a medley of cantaloupe, anise jelly and jiu niang (sweet Chinese rice wine) combined with ajo blanco, or chilled Spanish almond soup. The result is a refreshingly floral aroma with an interesting mix of textures.
We also enjoyed the maitake, which is a roasted hen-of-the-woods fungus in a pho-style beef broth with goji berries. Roasting the mushroom teased out its earthy flavours that complemented the beef soup delightfully. Next up, the lamb sweetbreads with molasses sauce and morel mushrooms was a perfect combination of sweet and savoury flavours.
Dessert was a feast of strawberries laid out on a picnic placemat and served with chrysanthemum Chantilly cream and scones. The unique amalgamation of ingredients from across the globe speaks of chef Cheung’s ingenuity, and with an ever-evolving menu, we look forward to our next visit.
Cultivate
29 Elgin St, Central
