Whey review: a new modern Singaporean and Malaysian restaurant in Central Hong Kong from former Beet chef Barry Quek
- Budget Southeast Asian food is easy to find in Hong Kong – so what sets this contemporary fine dining twist on Singaporean and Malaysian cuisine apart?
- The epic 12-course menu might fire your tastebuds – complete with flower clam soup, grilled kinmedai and pork rib bah kut teh
The problem with refining Southeast Asian cuisine is that parallels to budget-friendly options can so easily be drawn. So when Barry Quek, former chef of Beet who had the city abuzz with his near-perfect laksa at Basehall, takes on the challenge of crafting a contemporary twist on Singaporean and Malaysian cuisine, we’re all eyes.
There was a choice of two set menus at Whey and we were treated to the 12-course long menu (HK$1,190). The pie tee and cherry tomatoes starters were good, but it was the flower clam soup that caught our attention. The clear soup was an umami bomb from the shellfish while the bamboo shoot provided texture, and herbs such as dill added to the bouquet. The broth base is the definition of a good Asian soup but the other ingredients took it to a new level.
Asam sambal is a tangy tamarind sauce often used to balance spicy dishes like curries and laksa. Chef Quek used it as a main ingredient in the sauce for the grilled kinmedai that brought a new dimension to the often overlooked condiment, which paired nicely with the crispy-skinned fish. Piping hot brioche made with a buah keluak nut emulsion and cultured butter had us in rapture.
Chef Quek turned the idea of bah kut teh, or herbal pork ribs, on its head. Sumptuous pork is served in a herbal glaze rather than a broth, letting us experience this Southeast Asian staple in a new light.
For dessert, we loved the fluffy durian ice cream but felt it didn’t need the caviar garnish. Chef Barry Quek has given us a new way to appreciate Southeast Asian flavours with Whey.
Whey, UG/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, 2693 3198