Zoku restaurant review: Nobu-trained chef Phillip Pak brings artfully reimagined Japanese cuisine to The Hari in Wan Chai, Hong Kong
- Chef de cuisine Phillip Pak has worked alongside the legendary Nobu Matsuhisa – now he’s bringing that expertise to Hong Kong’s competitive Japanese dining scene
- Staples such as sashimi and fried spring rolls have been creatively reimagined, while the softshell crab tempura and Wagyu steak did not disappoint
We started our meal with softshell crab tempura (HK$188), and were quite surprised by the sheer size of the shellfish: a palm-sized tempura crab sits in a bath of sweet soy and scallions and the tangy condiment balances the fat and deep-fried crust very well.
Next up, we opted for the crispy spring roll (HK$148), shrimp and scallop mousse enveloped in a delicate paper-thin skin and served sitting in a smooth edamame purée. In combination with crunchy slivers of pickled radish, the medley of tangy and umami notes alongside a variety of textures were a party on the palate.
True to his time at Nobu, Pak’s sashimi has been given a creative spin as well. The yellowtail sashimi (HK$288) we tried was doused in a refreshing yuzu soy sauce and garnished with pepper for a spicy kick.
For mains we picked the Wagyu steak (HK$428/100g). The strip loin was grilled over binchotan to medium rare and layered with a slice of foie gras. We’ll admit it was a pretty rich bite, but the accompanying spicy miso sauce helped cut the heaviness.
We ended the meal with a tofu cheesecake (HK$118), and we also loved the East-meets-West combo of matcha ice cream and cinnamon crumble. Creative Japanese cuisine has a new address on Hong Kong Island.