I was recently out with some guys who, in my opinion, care a little too much about what they wear. They kept talking about selvedge denim. What is that and are raw selvedge jeans really better?
Mr Dapper: It is a common misconception that “raw” and “selvedge” are the same. Raw simply means denim that has gone through the dyeing process, but has not been treated or washed afterwards. Selvedge denim literally refers to the fabric’s edges, which are finished with a tightly woven band to prevent fraying. In the 1800s, denim was largely worn for work and woven on shuttle looms. As it became fashionable in the 1950s, manufacturers switched to more efficient projectile looms, using additional stitching to prevent unravelling. Compare the side seams of a few pairs to see the distinction. Selvedge is more expensive because so few manufacturers use old shuttle looms. Japan sparked a revival some years ago, so many Japanese labels offer it.
What’s the max number of undone shirt buttons for guys in the summer? I’d love to feel cooler, but was embarrassed by the, uh, openness of the men in Europe in July! What are the HK rules?
Mr Dandy: It’s a tricky one, right? One button too low and you look like a Chippendale. One button too high and you set off the serial killer alarm bells in people’s heads. It’s all about the context. Are you: A) A salsa teacher; B) A gigolo; C) Fabio? If none of the above, don’t go for the plunging neckline and chest hair show. At the beach or the pool, a simple rule is all the way off or all the way on. At work, even if you’re in a creative field, the general rule is two buttons.