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Chinos - there's more to the menswear staple than meets the eye. Photo: Shutterstock

Chinos or khakis, whatever you call them, there’s more to the menswear basic than beige cotton

Named for a US military fabric, the word came into use when American troops stationed in the Philippines started wearing trousers made from cotton twill from China

Fashion

I received a promotional email the other day extolling the “Tesla of Chinos”. Oh, how I laughed. Naturally, I forwarded it to all the men I know with a laughing emoji. How ridiculous! I mean, chinos are just basic, beige cotton trousers, right? Wrong, apparently. Shame on me for thinking menswear was straightforward. Even men who have never strayed far from a blue button-down replied with an opinion. So what makes the perfect chinos?

As with so many menswear staples, chinos have military roots. The word, meaning “Chinese” in Spanish, came into use when American troops began wearing trousers made of cotton twill from China while stationed in the Philippines during the Spanish-American war of 1898. After World War II, the plain front (fabric-conserving) trousers became popular for civilian wearamong 1950s Hollywood stars and preppy college types alike.

Actually, do you say chinos or khakis? The latter has slightly older roots. In the 1840s, in India, white British military uniforms were dyed khaki to better blend into the dusty environment; khaki means “dusty” in Hindi. Today, there are many differentiations between chinos and khakis, but they vary by brand. Some, such as outdoors company Orvis, categorise them as com­pletely different trousers. Others, such as Brooks Brothers, accept them as interchangeable terms while pointing out the historical definitions of chino as a fabric and khaki as a colour.

Menswear expert Alan See, of The Armoury haberdasher, puts them into two broad categories: “The dressier type – tailored and fitted, creased and ironed” and “the more casual and sporty type – meaning the machine washable, no crease, heavier cotton alternative to jeans”.

Brunello Cucinelli chinos are reportedly preferred by stylish Silicon Valley types.

With tailoring, See recommends, “The best is really to go for something that fits well through the waist and hip to get that nice base and foundation.” The fit of the legs, he adds, should match a man’s style and body type. By contrast, casual chinos at The Armoury tend to be medium-rise with a slightly fuller leg, and designed to go with a weekend blazer.

Differences between the two can be seen in the casual style’s distressed cottons, and sturdier, rugged double stitching. On the subject of fabric, See prefers pure cotton, “it is a more natural and luxe option for classic tailoring”. He recognises the stretch of Lycra can provide comfort and a snug fit, and prevent wrinkling.

Off the rack, cut is key. One habitual chino-wearer I spoke to swears by Uniqlo’s vintage regular-fit chinos, because the Japanese brand is roomy enough for his, shall we say, athletic thighs and calves. He also likes the hard-wearing yet plush 100 per cent cotton fabric: brushed and washed high-density West Point twill. Knowing he loves a bargain, I’d guess the price is also a factor.

Another man of similar taste and background but different body shape swears by Gap’s vintage straight-fit khakis with GapFlex. He likes the lower waist and the comfort of it’s 2 per cent Lycra, 98 per cent cotton fabric.

Chinos from the Ralph Lauren autumn/winter 2019 collection.

Interestingly, the “Tesla of Chinos”, better known as the tech chino by Taylrd Clothing, is 4 per cent spandex and 96 per cent cotton. It’s also moisture-wicking and spill-resistant. Does that make Gap’s pair more like a Prius?

Vintage cuts are a backlash following the many years of skinny-leg trousers and jeans we endured. Hence the enduring popularity of Dickies, Dockers and Ralph Lauren. Like Gap, brands such as Bonobos now offer more variations, including different waists, lengths, colours, pocket liners and a choice of five fits. The modern, skinny-leg-inclined are still catered to by brands such as Acne, Isaia and Slowear. In Silicon Valley, stylish chief exec­utives are apparently wearing Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana and Kiton, or Rag & Bone, if they’re feeling edgy.

Where does that leave the average guy? With many trousers to try on before he finds his perfect pair, whether he plans to wear them with a navy blazer or a skater T-shirt. Alan See has only one “don’t” for all the men out there: “Don’t miss out on chinos in your wardrobe. You’ll be using them a lot!”

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