Fermentation expert Sandor Katz on why we shouldn’t fear bacteria
American who's giving a workshop on fermentation in Hong Kong, and hoping to learn from China tour, explains why people have been using the food processing technique for millennia
Why will you be visiting the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong? “They’re interested in all aspects of fermentation – kombucha, vinegars, miso, vegetables, everything. Fermentation creates most of the extraordinary flavours that we know of, and is part of every table, from soy sauce to fish sauce to the basket of bread, and chocolate and cheeses.”
Do you have to be scientific to understand the bacterial process of fermentation? “It’s a mix of art and science. It’s important to remember science has only understood what fermentation is for about 150 years but people have been doing it for 10,000 years. You just have to understand the environment you’re creating in. You’re encouraging the growth of certain organisms and discouraging other organisms.
I am fascinated by the microbiology. I have a microscope in my kitchen. Some people get scared when you talk about bacteria culture growth and organisms in food. People do project their fears and anxieties of bacteria on fermentation. The ironic thing is it has always been a strategy for food safety – there is no history of sickness in eating fermented food.
When people are worried, I tell them that if their sauerkraut makes them sick it will be an unprecedented historical event – after thousands of years of krauts, your jar is the one with dangerous bacteria. None of the bad organisms you worry about can survive in lactic acid.”