The essence of Cantonese cuisine is simple, says a three-Michelin-star chef in Macau
- Joseph Tse is executive chef of restaurant The Eight at the Grand Lisboa, in Macau
- He says that while some customers still appreciate tradition, there is a trend towards making food that is healthier
What is the essence of Cantonese cuisine? “Three main elements define our gastronomic identity: fresh, pure and rich. This means simplicity in execution, and preserving and respecting what nature has given us. Any sauce that covers the original taste is not acceptable.”
The Eight has held three Michelin stars for six consecutive years. How does that feel? “I am never proud of myself. Being the first person coming to work and the last one to leave the kitchen, as the leader I must ensure that there are no issues relating to operations or equipment. Anyone who has an ego will never succeed because we must be humble and keep learning. I would not expect people to respect me more just because I am a decorated Michelin-star chef.”
Do you follow trends? “We still prepare a Manchu Han Imperial Feast [which was served only to emperors during the Qing dynasty, and can consist of more than 108 dishes] once in a while because some customers do appreciate tradition.
“Having a flavourful stock as a base for dishes is still important in Cantonese cuisine, yet the trend is gearing towards a clear broth. We all want to be healthier, and not have to deal with cardiovascular issues or diabetes. I realised this 10 years ago and cut down on sugar and salt, by at least 20 per cent. A chef needs to be sensitive to the wants of customers ahead of time. I often have ideas and plan one or two years ahead of execution.”
