Life.Culture.Discovery.

How the first person to have eaten at every three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the world survived lockdown

Up to date in September, Andy Hayler now has a few gaps in his perfect record after the coronavirus caused cancelled trips

He argues that Michelin maintains its relevance because it offers an assurance of quality but admits the scoring isn’t always consistent

Reading Time:4 minutes

Ultraviolet, in Shanghai, was the scene of Andy Hayler’s most expensive meal. Photo: AFP

Published: 8:00pm, 20 Aug 2020Updated: 11:44am, 17 Dec 2020

You eat out more than most. How did you fare during lockdown in Britain? “We cooked a lot at home, and once a week had a takeaway. Luckily, there’s very good takeaway food available in London, such as fine Indian food from Dastaan and a beautiful bento box from Endo.”

What is your favourite city for food and why? “Tokyo is objectively the most interesting, partly due to the remarkable quality of produce there, and also the great variety of restaurants. However, I do have a soft spot for Lyon.”

How do you maintain a healthy diet given you eat so many tasting menus? “I eat out a few days a week, but eat vegetarian food at home and usually have something like a sandwich and an apple for lunch. You cannot eat tasting menus day in and day out.”

What’s the most memorable meal you’ve ever had?“My first meal at Jamin, in Paris, in 1986, when Joël Robuchon was at the height of his powers. It was the meal that got me really interested in high-end dining, and although I have been lucky enough to eat many great meals over the years, I have never encountered an objectively better or more consistent restaurant than Jamin.”

Andy Hayler, a London-based data warehousing expert and the only person to have eaten at every three-Michelin-starred restaurant on the planet. Photo: courtesy of Andy Hayler

What has been your most significant bill? “The priciest place was Ultraviolet in Shanghai, which cost just over £500 [US$655] per person for the tasting menu. However, that includes some wine and a unique sensory dining experience, so although it is a lot of money I can understand where the cost goes: 30 staff for 10 diners is never going to be cheap. You can, of course, spend even more if you indulge in high-end wine lists.”

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