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Japan’s ‘Wagyu Olympics’ and how the best beef is selected by restaurants and retailers in Hong Kong

  • Japan’s largest wagyu fair, held every five years in October, crowns the top Japanese beef, with wagyu from Miyazaki prefecture dominating in recent iterations
  • Sellers in Hong Kong talk about how the select they highest-quality beef from renowned areas of Japan, based on breed, sex, age and diet

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Cattle and breeders take part in the 2017 Wagyu Olympics in the Japanese city of Sendai. Wagyu is regarded as the best beef in the world, but what makes it so special? Photo: Reuters

The Zenkoku Wagyu Nouryoku Kyoushinkai, or Zenkyo for short, is the largest wagyu beef fair in Japan. Held once every five years since its founding in 1966, it is regarded as the “Wagyu Olympics”. This year Zenkyo will take place from October 6 to 10 in Kagoshima prefecture, on the island of Kyushu.

There are only two categories in the fair: breed improvement and meat quality, the latter having various subcategories. In the past three iterations of Zenkyo, Miyazaki wagyu, from Miyazaki prefecture, dominated by winning in either one or both of these categories.

“Japan has 47 prefectures and we know which ones enter Zenkyo and which refrain from the competition,” says Wyman Lee Wai-man, a meat buyer for Hong Kong’s upmarket grocery chain City’super.

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Much like the Olympic Games, the Wagyu Olympics has strong and weak players, he says. “Miyazaki and Kagoshima are the premium producers of wagyu in Japan, and have the highest production volume and strong support from their local governments.”
Raising wagyu cows is a painstaking process that requires lots of knowledge and skill. Photo: Shutterstock
Raising wagyu cows is a painstaking process that requires lots of knowledge and skill. Photo: Shutterstock

According to Instagram food influencer Joyce To Ysz-heo, wagyu is one of the few premium delicacies that is widely loved around the world.

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