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What Cantonese chefs share with kung fu fighters – speed and timing, necessary to produce ‘breath of the wok’ textures and flavours

  • From street-food stalls to Michelin-star restaurants, the ‘breath of the wok’ gives Cantonese dishes their distinctive aromas, colours and flavours
  • It takes the skill and timing of a martial artist to stir-fry food at high temperatures so the fat in ingredients vaporises and surfaces are lightly charred

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Cooks working in a “dai pai dong” in Hong Kong. From such street food stalls to fine-dining Cantonese restaurants, customers savour the effect of “wok hei”, the “breath of the wok”, in their food. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung
Lisa Cam

It’s a concept that reaches far back into the history of Cantonese cuisine. Wok hei, or “breath of the wok”, is the gold standard when it comes to any dish cooked in this distinctive, large steel vessel.

Achieving wok hei in a dish – be it fried rice and stir-fries or saucy sweet-and-sour pork – is a skill attained only by high-level chefs, who know how to control all the necessary elements.

Whether they are served on the streets of Hong Kong’s New Territories or in a Michelin-starred restaurant, dishes that encapsulate wok hei can distinguish a great chef from a good one. But what exactly is wok hei?

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With more than four decades of experience, chef Tsang Chiu-king earned the first Michelin star for Ming Court, in Mong Kok, in 2009. Now stationed at sister restaurant Ming Court in Wan Chai, Tsang serves as head of Chinese cuisine for the Langham Hospitality Group – and is known for his mastery of the wok.

Tsang pinpoints a key element of good wok cooking, often referred to as the Maillard reaction – when the proteins and sugars in food are transformed by heat, creating more complex flavours, aromas and colours.

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Wok hei is the effect of food cooked at high tem­per­atures over an open fire,” he says. “When the ingredients are repeatedly stir-fried at high temperatures, the liquids in the food will reach boiling point in a short time, the fat will vaporise and the surface of the ingredients will retain a unique light oily texture, with a slightly charred surface and aroma.”
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