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French superchef’s restaurant makes stay at new Shanghai resort worthwhile

Enjoy ‘simple but authentic French cuisine’ at le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, restaurant in the Chinese city’s latest resort, Capella Shanghai – a celebration of shikumen architecture

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The Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li.
Chris Dwyer

A new hotel in Shanghai; another faceless corporate high-rise? Steady on! The Capella is actually a conver­sion of a whole 1930s neighbourhood, where shikumen architecture graces elegant villas surrounded by narrow alleyways, courtyards and stone arches. The Jian Ye Li estate, in the leafy Xuhui district, was built back in the day by a French real-estate company, Foncière et Immobilière de Chine, to house expatriates.

So like an art-deco Mid-Levels? Funny. In 1945, the area was transformed and the 200 villas became residences for hundreds of Shanghainese families, with market stalls and workshops filling the lanes. It was, by all accounts, a vibrant community.

What does it look like today? It’s a beautiful property, inside and out, where clearly no expense has been spared. The layout means that it’s hidden from view from the street, so only by stepping through the archways do you get to discover the 55 villas, ranging in size from one to three bedrooms, as well as 40 swanky residences.

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The entrance to a villa at the Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li.
The entrance to a villa at the Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li.
What can I expect inside my villa? Space, elegant furniture, art, every modern convenience. And steps. The three storeys in each villa mean there are many steps – 21 in fact – to get to your bed­room. The ground floor is a chic reception room, then there’s an entertainment room with television and mini­bar on the next level, then your bed­room, before a few more softly carpeted steps take you to the all-white marble bathroom.

So it’s a bit of a workout? Hardly. Your bags are, of course, delivered for you, so all you need to do is explore. There’s one final set of steps to take you to a rooftop terrace, from where the view is all red-tiled rooftops and eaves. The one-bedroom villas are a roomy 111 square metres while the three-bedroomed come in at a whopping 250, making them suitable for families. The furniture, accessories and artworks mix French and Chinese accents while the materials and colours are reassuringly soothing.

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The Shikumen Villa King Bedroom at the Capella Shanghai.
The Shikumen Villa King Bedroom at the Capella Shanghai.

What else is there to discover? While you’d be forgiven for not wanting to leave your villa, there are a number of distractions. There’s a library stocked with volumes on Shanghainese history, art, architecture and fashion, complete with comfy chairs – and great biscuits. The Auriga spa is named after a constellation – of which Capella is the brightest star – and offers a philosophy “based on the cycles of the moon”.

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