This article was written by Jessica Rapp and originally published in Jing Daily
It has been called the “Project Runway of China” – a version of the American reality television show Project Runway, which is focused on fashion design – and it stars leading figures from the mainland’s burgeoning fashion industry.
Fashion Master, a reality show produced jointly by state-run television network CCTV and e-commerce giant JD.com, launched early in April to showcase the talent of Chinese designers and “build a bridge for Chinese aesthetics and the world’s fashion industry”.
With other reality shows such as The Rap of China and Street Dance of China leaving a cultural mark on mainland consumers, it has left industry insiders wondering: could this programme have the same impact on China’s fashion scene?
Over the course of the season, more than 30 young designers will be assessed by a panel of judges, which include the editorial director of Vogue China, Angelica Cheung, designers Guo Pei and Vivienne Tam, and Nanjing Normal University professor Li Bo – in addition to a rotating group of guest judges, including Yang Mi.
The contestants’ challenge is to design a clothing and accessories collection that borrows elements from Chinese culture.
Beijing-based designer Li Kun, with her brand Alicia Lee, kicked off the season showcasing handbags and garments inspired by Chinese guardian lions.
A post shared by Angelica Cheung (@angelica_cheung) on May 19, 2018 at 8:40pm PDT
For international luxury brands catering to Chinese consumers, using symbols of Chinese culture in their designs does not always bode well for success, but it is clear the creators have their reasons for the format.
Xia Ding, president of international fashion at JD.com, said: “Europe and the United States still lead the world in fashion, but it cannot be overlooked that the Chinese aesthetic is also in the fashion world.
“China has an increasingly important position in the industry and designers all over the world are paying attention to cultural elements from the East.
“JD hopes to use the power of its platform to promote Chinese design and aesthetics to the world.”
The two judges, Guo – a couturier who practically became a household name in the West when singer Rihanna wore her dress, which was likened to a Chinese omelette – and Tam – a Hong Kong-based designer with shops in New York and Beijing – have both been praised for achieving a balance of Eastern and Western creative elements in their successful clothing lines.
In Fashion Master, the objective and outcomes are much more forthright, with every episode featuring a different Chinese cultural theme.
Sam Waldo, co-founder of Beijing-based eyewear brand Mantra, and a contestant on the show, says: “Where I would hope they would go with the show ... is to show that these are young Chinese designers that, generally speaking, live and have their businesses here and are from China, so their actual inspiration or their ‘Chineseness’ comes from the fact that it’s being made by them.
“Do you necessarily need to put a phoenix or a dragon on it? I don’t think so – I’d think that you can make it more authentic and more appealing by having the creativity of the Chinese designer really shine through as much as possible.
“In some instances that might involve Chinese design and in some instances it might not.”
Waldo opted to be a contestant on the show, teaming up with friend and designer Diana Li, because Mantra itself did not have its own clothing line
“Guo Pei has a wild imagination compared to haute couture designers from the West.” - CNN Style . Watch the video with English subtitle in Bio to find out more about Guo Pei, and the three objects she feels best to represent her. . https://www.cnn.com/style/article/guo-pei-haute-couture-paris/index.html #Guopei #Couture
A post shared by Guo Pei (@guopei) on May 23, 2018 at 4:53am PDT
Mantra, which follows a “buy one, give one” business model, draws inspiration for its own designs from aspects of Chinese culture.
Its premium eyewear collection, for example, borrows elements from textiles made by ethnic minorities in China’s Yunnan province.
A post shared by YangMiFansClub (@yangmifansclub) on Apr 28, 2018 at 9:32am PDT
Although it is likely to have given his brand exposure – CCTV cooperated with Tencent to broadcast the show live for viewers to watch on their smartphones – Waldo says he guesses that the concept for his collection may have been confusing, because it had nothing to do with his actual brand.
He and Li came second behind Li Kun.
Waldo says that behind the scenes, the show was not that much like Project Runway at all; most of his designer’s hands-on work, including collaboration with her seamstress and overall production of the garments was not videotaped.
Instead, the producers opted for a scene featuring Waldo and Li poring over a Yunnan inspiration board, as well as a few simple shots of setting up and ironing clothing on the day of the show.
HAPPY VIVIENNE TAM DAY!! May 4th was proclaimed "Vivienne Tam Day" by the City of Houston, Texas, for her contribution to bringing international attention to Houston and to celebrate the success of her #SS2017 #Houston Collection. Let the world be inspired by the vibrant #diversity and energy of Houston! Lotsa love from Vivienne! #VIVIENNETAM #SS17 #viviennetamday #festival #celebration #Texas #spoonbills #red #May4th #fashiondesign #WesternCowboy #EasternCowboy
A post shared by VIVIENNE TAM (@viviennetam) on May 4, 2018 at 7:16am PDT
“I don’t really fault them for the way they did it,” Waldo says. “It’s not Project Runway – it doesn’t have the budget or the time investment of a show at that level.
“We weren’t sequestered for days or weeks to participate in it.
“But from everyone I’ve heard, reactions to the show are generally positive.
“I think it got most of the way there … But if they’re looking to build something that’s really institutional or at the level of these shows it’s being compared to, I think over time they’ll figure it out and make it more authentic and engrossing.”
On Weibo, the Chinese microblogging website, the reception for Fashion Master has been generally positive so far.
A small minority of viewers expressed online that they did not like the Chinese elements in the garment designs, but most commenters applauded the contestants and their work, with many asking where they could buy the clothes.
Of course, as Weibo is heavily scrutinised, it is also worth noting that more critical voices may have been censored.
Internet users praised the judges for their wisdom and for being an inspiration to viewers at home.
One wrote: “It makes me sad every time I see Chinese people scoffing at ‘Made in China’.
Before the world can fall in love with Chinese design, we must first fall in love with Chinese design ourselves.”
A post shared by Angelica Cheung (@angelica_cheung) on May 20, 2018 at 5:13pm PDT
Even if audiences do not get a behind-the-scenes look at the design and production process, those watching the show can get a snapshot of the cultural dialogue surrounding Chinese luxury fashion consumers – albeit, as it is presented in a state-owned television medium.
For example, when Li showcased her collection on the season premiere, one judge, Zhang Jing, an established CCTV Finance host, suggested that if it was priced right, Li’s handbag collection might be attractive – and a less “risky” purchase – to consumers who might otherwise buy luxury brands.
“Many girls likely have the same feeling that when they buy their first bag, if they want to look a little more fashionable, they’ll definitely want to get a foreign luxury brand bag,” Zhang told Li on the show. “But some girls, when they’ve just entered the workforce, might not have much money to spend so they’ll cut down on buying food so that they can buy a bag.
“But what they won’t realise is they might end up buying a fake!”
Zhang told Li: “So if the price of your bag is actually really reasonable, why would I bother spending so much money on a bag from a foreign luxury brand, only to still have people think that I might have bought a fake?
“In that case, I would be better just buying a bag with some character, like this one.”
A post shared by YangMiFansClub (@yangmifansclub) on Apr 28, 2018 at 9:35am PDT
If viewers take Zhang’s comments to heart, they can visit Fashion Master’s exclusive online store on JD.com’s e-commerce platform to buy items from the collections.
“It’s incredibly exciting to introduce outstanding, up-and-coming Chinese designers to a huge audience through this show,” Ding told Jing Daily.
“A number of hot, young designers have used it as a launch pad to open their own flagship stores on JD, including [Mika Lee of] Awaylee, Ruby Fang and Chen Xing.”
JD is only one of China’s major e-commerce platforms that are bringing China’s emerging fashion talent to the masses to diversify their product offerings and offer a unique asset to global markets in the future.
JD and Tmall – owned by Alibaba Group, the e-commerce conglomerate that owns the South China Morning Post – were present at Shanghai Fashion Week, in addition to high-luxury online shopping platform Secoo, which debuted an e-commerce channel for 100 indie local designers at the event.
A post shared by Angelica Cheung (@angelica_cheung) on Apr 28, 2018 at 8:56am PDT
Waldo says he thinks that the show might actually offer an opportunity for luxury brands as well; he is hoping that his episode gives his own premium independent brand a little boost.