Why dining in Paris better than ever

For years dining in Paris was great for lovers of French food, and less great for anyone else. You could enjoy any dish you liked — from Michelin-star fare to the local bistro — so long as it was French.

Now, Japanese are the chefs of the moment, even an American can make his mark and that cool bar in Pigalle may be a taqueria. Anti-immigration policies may be gaining traction in this nation’s election year, but my recent visit shows the foreign arrivals are bringing an excitement and diversity to the city’s restaurant scene that has been sorely lacking.

Here are 16 places to try. Some are cheap, some horribly expensive. Some are modern, some old-fashioned. But the city is hopping.

Kei

If you have time for one meal in Paris, try for a table at Kei. Chef Kei Kobayashi spent seven years with Alain Ducasse before striking out and now holds two Michelin stars. The room is understated, the staff are attentive and friendly, and the food is fireworks. The signature dish is epic: Garden of crunchy vegetables, Scottish smoked salmon, rocket foam, lemon emulsion, tomato vinaigrette and black-olive crumble. It’s the best salad of my life.

Clown Bar

This tiny joint next to a circus near the Bastille is one of the hottest restaurants in Paris. The tiled room, with an open kitchen at one side, is hot and cramped, with cheerfully informal service.

The dishes are simple, full of flavour, and inexpensive for Paris. (The standout starter of veal brain with tosazu vinegar dressing is 12 euros/US$13). Oh, and the chef is Japanese.

L’Entrée des Artistes

This small bar round the corner from Clown Bar is cool and yet friendly. It belongs to two friends who have mixed cocktails from New York to London.