While there is no comparison between Restaurant Frantzén and Restaurant Zén, the latter has clearly inhabited the space with aplomb, setting in motion a culinary sensation in just three months. It now has a waiting list that stretches indefinitely. I did wonder if this was a ruse, the work of a clever PR machine.

But seeing and tasting is indeed believing. On arrival, there was no welcome outside the restaurant, so this did not bode well for a first impression.

However, once seated, head chef Tristan Farmer, who exudes affable Scottish warmth, was at my table within minutes. Doling out introductions, it wasn’t so much a meet the chef moment, but more like friends exchanging notes.

There are 14 courses served on three floors, with food prepared with Nordic and Japanese traditional culinary touches. Nordic exotic delicacies, such as the mackerel and beaver’s tail, did not make it onto the menu.

While at the “kitchen” – the first floor space where the food gets prepared – guests like myself who had scored a reservation were treated to conceptually sophisticated bite-sized starters à la beer poached crustacean, smetana, wild trout roe, and celeriac, nutmeg, black truffle. For a writer who has refrained from the daft cliché “mouth-watering” for close to two decades, I am now compelled to make an exception.

The second level, christened “the dining room”, was where the serious indulgence began. Here, came a succession of eight courses, five savoury and three sweet. Some of the courses, such as the incomparable Kinmedai, Koshihikari rice, sea urchin, matsutake and Vin jaune was pre-plated and delivered in optimal tasting conditions. Others, such as the French toast grande tradition with consommé à la truffle, were assembled at the table with grand flourishes. Every shave of the truffle added to the quickening of the heartbeat and after about six dozen or so shaves, an avalanche of that black gold had been piled on the toast.

One then takes a bite and is instantly lifted to the heights of ultimate indulgence.

One is then brought back to earth with a kind inquiry as to whether one would like more of the accompanying consommé, a surprise that just keeps giving me more reasons to love this place.

The evening thus proceeded with a sitting at the “living room”, where a selection of premium teas and more desserts, including a Haruka golden apples and cloudberry cobbler and a melange of fruits prepared in surprising ways, such as Kumquat, bitter cocoa bean, lemongrass and Yumenoka strawberry, camomile, were proffered.

The whole affair lasted four hours and the courses were paired by delectable wines, sake and intriguingly crafted non-alcoholic juices. My favourite was the purple carrot with smoked maple syrup and the rhubarb raspberry with silver needle tea and spruce syrup.

Want more stories like this? Sign up here. Follow STYLE on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter