Guadalajara, the capital of Jalisco state and Mexico’s second largest city, boasts a population of some 4.5 million people and is home to tequila, mariachi, the national sport charrería (think rodeo) and the national dance jarabe tapatío. It’s a major centre for arts and crafts, in particular ceramics, for which Mexico is renowned. But that’s not all. Guadalajara has a delicious and thriving food and drink scene, it’s the birthplace of Mexico’s most famous architect and there is a magnificent Unesco World Heritage Site in the historic centre. At an elevation of about 1,600 metres, the temperature is pleasant all year round and the city is much more manageable than the national capital Mexico City. And yet, it barely gets international visitors, save for a few stray Americans, who instead flock to beach resorts like Puerto Vallarta, Cabo and Cancun. Here’s five reasons to ditch the tired clichés and change that, with a trip to Mexico’s most authentic city. 5 luxury travel destinations on every Gen X-er’s bucket list Mariachi Mariachi performances may seem like a tourist trap, but before turning your nose up at it, know that this art form is recognised as a tradition of Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage, beloved by Mexicans young and old. Mariachi can be found all over the country and is especially popular during celebrations, with Guadalajara and Jalisco state its heartland. The music combines Spanish colonial and indigenous elements, with men (the tradition is usually passed from father to son) in natty charro (cowboy) outfits singing folk songs of life and love accompanied by violins, guitars and trumpets. Enjoy the experience at El Parian in the city of Tlaquepaque, which adjoins Guadalajara. El Parian’s huge shaded courtyard is ringed by more than a dozen cantinas serving traditional food and drinks while roving musicians serenade tables for a small fee. Touristy but fun. Tequila Tequila, that most desecrated of spirits, deserves new-found appreciation – and the best way to do it is to visit the town of Tequila itself, an hour’s drive from Guadalajara. Designated a World Heritage Site by Unesco – and a Pueblo Magico (magic town) by Mexico's Secretariat of Tourism – the home of tequila is indeed magical, a place of cobbled streets, vividly-painted buildings, rustic haciendas and working distilleries. Stunning fields of spiky blue agave, the plant used to make tequila, cover rolling hills beneath the shadow of Tequila mountain. Follow the Tequila Route to get there, or better yet, hop on one of two tequila express trains. These are operated by two major producers – Herradura and Jose Cuervo – on weekends-only and include train rides, distillery tours, tastings and entertainment. Or DIY with a visit to one of many smaller operators. Of note is La Fortaleza, by appointment only, a producer that still crafts its tequila almost entirely by hand, including bottling and labelling. Whichever you choose, resist the shots and sip the tequila slowly, savouring its mead-like qualities. Would you stay in a North Korean spa resort? Tacos and tortillas Tacos are to Mexicans what wontons are to Hongkongers, possibly more, a great social leveller in a country with great income disparity – just don’t get into a debate about who makes the best. Sampling the real deal will almost certainly change your perception of this often-bastardised cuisine. Take the easy option at Café P'al Real or La Panga del Impostor, known for its seafood – but with taco stands seemingly on every street corner, if you see a smoking stand and a line anywhere, go for it. Classic fillings include carne asada meat and carnitas pork, and rotisserie-style pastor, or try the lengua (tongue), a favourite among locals. Even more ubiquitous is the corn-based tortilla, which is served with every meal. Xokol puts it front and centre, with chef Cynthia Xrysw Ruelas recently winning the prestigious S. Pellegrino Young Chef award for the Latin America region. At Alcalde, which won highest new entry when it debuted on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list, chef Francisco Ruano takes Mexican cuisine to a new level – though the restaurant is prone to tourist group bookings. Is this the end of social media travel? Artisans View this post on Instagram A post shared by JorgeMHdz (@jorgeluismolinahdz) on Nov 20, 2019 at 7:48pm PST When Danish chef René Redzepi needed crockery and lighting for his hugely popular pop-up restaurant in Mexico, he sought out Cerámica Suro in Guadalajara. The go-to for contemporary ceramics counts plenty of other big names among its clients, including star architect David Adjaye and artists Sarah Morris and Beatriz Milhazes. Everything is custom made and visits are by appointment only. For more traditional crafts, head to the villages of Tlaquepaque and Tonalá. At pretty Tlaquepaque, arts and craft stores sell all manner of traditional homeware and trinkets, with Antigua de Mexico a stand-out. Tonala is ground zero for pottery and ceramics, home to the National Museum of Ceramics, and its Thursday and Sunday handicraft markets are especially popular. Architecture View this post on Instagram A post shared by Kronos Homes (@kronoshomes) on Oct 16, 2019 at 12:03pm PDT Pritzker prizewinner Luis Barragan, the father of modern Mexican architecture, was born in Guadalajara. Barragan often added brilliant bursts of colour and flourishes of detail to offset the sombre lines of modernism. While his best known buildings are in Mexico City, many of his earlier works can be seen by walking around the Colonia Americana and Colonia Lafayette neighbourhoods. Buildings to look for include Casa Franco, which houses Travesia Cuatro gallery; Casa Iteso Clavigero, now a cultural centre run by the Jesuit University; Casa Cristo, now the College of Architects of the State of Jalisco; and the Parque de la Revolucion. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Global Gemz (@globalgemz) on Jun 28, 2018 at 1:32pm PDT There is a wealth of other architectural styles in Guadalajara, including art deco and Spanish colonial. A stroll through the Centro Historico is a must, taking in the Guadalajara Cathedral, the Teatro Degollado and the World Heritage-listed Instituto Cultural Cabanas, which features murals by José Clemente Orozco, arguably Mexico’s best-known artist after Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Visit Greenland to spot humpback whales and dodge great glaciers Where to stay With its beautiful tree-lined streets, noteworthy architecture, cool restaurants and bars, art galleries, general safety, and proximity to the historic centre, the upscale Colonia Americana neighbourhood makes an ideal base for visitors. Our top pick for hotels is the 37-room, design-led Casa Habita, in a 1940s house and adjoining modern low-rise block. Or try nearby Villa Ganz in Colonia Lafayette for something more traditional. Those wanting the bells and whistles of a familiar chain hotel should check-in to the Hyatt Regency Andares Guadalajara, in the upscale suburb of Zapopan. Want more stories like this? Sign up here . 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