Next-gen Spanish food in Hong Kong: where to eat beyond everyday tapas, paella and chorizo – inspired by five-time World’s 50 Best Restaurants-winner El Bulli

Oct 24 , 2020

Lobster paella at Olé Spanish Restaurant in Central, Hong Kong. Spanish cuisine has exploded in popularity across the world, thanks to its focus on simplicity, freshness and flavour, say chefs at some of Hong Kong’s top restaurants. Photo: SCMP

Taste the country’s farm-fresh produce, regional flavours and the influence of master chefs at Hong Kong restaurants such as Rubia, Olé Spanish Restaurant and IFC’s La Rambla by Catalunya

“Spanish cuisine does not follow trends, it sets them,” says Edgar Sanuy Barahona, culinary director of Epicurean Group’s Spanish division. We are discussing what it is about food from the country that has made it a common sight on the streets of Hong Kong – and around the world – in recent years.

“Because it’s a produce-based cuisine, it doesn’t follow trends.You can have trends, like burgers and shakes, but rarely do these trends put emphasis on using good produce. Spanish cuisine, like Japanese, builds its foundations on good seasonal produce, and that is appreciated worldwide.”

“Traditional Spanish cuisine is about proximity with emphasis on the freshness of the product,” agrees head chef Antonio Martin at Olé Spanish Restaurant in Central, one of the oldest Spanish eateries in Hong Kong.

Executive chef Antonio Martin at Olé Spanish Restaurant, one of Hong Kong’s oldest Spanish eateries. Photo: SCMP

“People use the veggies and legumes from the garden next to their house, the meat from where they live, or fish and seafood if they live by the coast, and olive oil, pork fat or butter depending on which geographical area in Spain they are from.”

According to Martin, Spanish cuisine is all about simplicity. “We believe that if you use fresh ingredients, you do not need much more. The mixing of many ingredients used to be seen as a way to mask something wrong with the quality. Traditional Spanish cuisine places more importance on the aroma and flavour than the visual effect of the dish.”

Fig tart with pecans and port wine reduction at Olé Spanish restaurant in Hong Kong. Photo: SCMP

The food across Spain also differs around the country, with each of the 16 regions producing a different cuisine. Andalusia is rural, coastal and home to the well known, hearty gazpacho. Valencia, also rural and coastal, is famous for its seafood, especially the paella. Then there is mountainous La Rioja, where you find cold cuts of pork and lamb as well as frittata.

La Rambla by Catalunya, in Hong Kong’s upscale IFC Mall, serves dishes from Barcelona in the region of Catalonia. “Barcelona is located in the Mediterranean, so there tends to be a focus on fresh seafood and vegetables, which allows for clean eating,” says executive chef Ferran Tadeo.

“For example, a typical Barcelonan dish tends to include rice combined with grilled fish and roasted vegetables. In contrast, Madrid, which is located in the centre of Spain, tends to have richer, heavier food such as soups, meat stews, and roast pork.”