Is Indonesia’s Nihi Sumba the world’s best beach hideaway? The highly rated barefoot luxury resort has won plenty of awards for its beauty, plus its regard for the people and culture of Sumba

Finding a place that exceeds your expectations is becoming increasingly hard in a world dominated by heavily filtered social media. In a few quick swipes you can tour the globe, hopping between exotic spots thousands of miles apart, all captured in Insta-perfect weather and light, without even boarding – or booking – a plane.

Nihi Sumba is one of those destination hotels that seem too good to be true. While dreamy images of guests surfing epic waves off the island’s Nihiwatu Beach, swimming with wild horses and exploring cerulean rock pools are indeed splashed across Instagram, the resort also ranks among the top 20 hotels on Condé Nast Traveller’s Gold List 2023 and is the recipient of many more global awards.

Its remote location adds to its aura of exclusivity. Accessible only via a 1.5-hour domestic flight east from Bali, followed by a similarly long car ride, it is nestled on the southern shore at the western end of Sumba, one of Indonesia’s less visited islands. Around 50km to the north lies the near-mythical Komodo with its famous dragons. Travel journalists have hailed it an unspoilt paradise, suggesting it is what Bali was before the arrival of mass tourism and shopping malls.

Nihi bills itself as being on the “edge of wildness”. The drive there isn’t particularly picturesque – the road is flanked by small stores, schools and traditional straw-roof huts where villagers lounge around playing on their mobile phones. It’s only when the driver stops at the top of the hotel’s driveway that we finally catch a glimpse of the dramatic coastline below.

The resort feels like a surprisingly upscale village tucked away in the jungle. Winding stone pathways are lined with cocoa and banyan trees and other native plants, and connect the villas with the main areas including the restaurant, Boathouse bar, beach club and pool. All the dining spots have sand-covered floors and wide ocean views. The vibe is more barefoot luxury than Saint Tropez. In fact, you can immediately tell which guests have just arrived because they are the only ones still wearing shoes.

As for the architecture, if you’re a fan of a minimalist, modern aesthetic then Nihi isn’t for you. Every villa is unique, built in traditional Sumbanese style with interiors of dark wood panelling, enormous canopy beds, free-standing bathtubs, and traditional touches including carvings, antiques and ikat prints. The look is rustic enhanced with a few modern amenities like high-pressure rain showers and powerful air conditioning. Every villa comes with a private plunge pool, although the real draw is the long beach with uninterrupted views and access to the Indian Ocean.