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Travel & Hotels

Review / Chinese tea culture meets Aman luxury at Amanfayun in Hangzhou

STORYGloria Tso
At Amanfayun, in Hangzhou, restored village dwellings blend traditional Chinese architecture with quiet luxury. Photo: Handout
At Amanfayun, in Hangzhou, restored village dwellings blend traditional Chinese architecture with quiet luxury. Photo: Handout
Luxury Hotels

Set among ancient tea fields and Buddhist temples, Amanfayun is where Longjing tea culture, village life and Aman’s quiet luxury converge

Amanfayun is not the celebrated Aman Group’s oldest or newest property in mainland China, but it very much feels like the hospitality brand’s spiritual home in the country. The property is located just six kilometres from Hangzhou’s West Lake, a Unesco World Heritage site. Within Amanfayun, a secluded walkway leads directly to two revered Buddhist monasteries, the Lingyin and Yongfu Temples, both over 1,600 years old. Shrouded in towering trees and bamboo groves, the property is a stunning testament to a place that even legendary explorer Marco Polo once deemed the most beautiful city in the world, inspiring countless poets and artists across the centuries.
Taoguang Temple, one of the ancient Buddhist sites within easy reach of Amanfayun. Photo: Handout
Taoguang Temple, one of the ancient Buddhist sites within easy reach of Amanfayun. Photo: Handout
Thanks to the “Chinamaxxing” trend on social media, Chinese tea culture has gained new fans over the past year – and Hangzhou is undoubtedly one of its most celebrated homes. For over a millennium, Hangzhou has served as the production centre for one of China’s top 10 famous teas, Longjing (Dragon Well) – which takes its name from the sprawling tea fields of the city’s Longjing Village. Each of Amanfayun’s 46 villas, rooms and suites occupies a former village dwelling once home to families who tended the surrounding tea fields, and all come with a full tea-brewing station and tea leaves picked from the resort’s own grounds.
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A tea picker harvests Longjing leaves from the fields surrounding Amanfayun. Photo: Handout
A tea picker harvests Longjing leaves from the fields surrounding Amanfayun. Photo: Handout

Known as West Lake Longjing tea, the leaves are a prized variety grown within a strict 168-square-kilometre zone around West Lake. To this day, they are hand-picked and pan-roasted in small batches, with master roasters using their bare hands to shape the leaves in woks heated to over 200 degrees Celsius. Getting to witness this first hand is undoubtedly the highlight of Amanfayun’s many cultural offerings, which also include calligraphy classes, lantern making, and on the weekend of my arrival, zongzi (glutinous rice dumpling) wrapping for Dragon Boat Festival.

A tea master performs a traditional gongfu tea ceremony at Fayun Place, Amanfayun’s historic teahouse. Photo: Handout
A tea master performs a traditional gongfu tea ceremony at Fayun Place, Amanfayun’s historic teahouse. Photo: Handout

Honouring their centuries-old origins, the accommodations have been sensitively restored using traditional materials, with clay-tile roofs, timber structures, and walls moulded out of brick and earth. Furnishings strike a balance between old-world charm and quiet luxury, deepening the sense of cultural immersion; as a friend remarked, binge-watching Chinese dramas may be fun, but nothing compares to becoming a character in one.

While many hotels go to great lengths to create a sense of serenity and privacy, nothing about Amanfayun’s natural beauty or tranquillity is manufactured. The expansive stretches of forest shrouding the resort’s spa facilities and swimming pool, in particular, are magnificent but not manicured, with greenery growing in just about every direction.

Dark timber, stone sinks and a thatched ceiling define the bathroom of a Village Room at Amanfayun. Photo: Handout
Dark timber, stone sinks and a thatched ceiling define the bathroom of a Village Room at Amanfayun. Photo: Handout

One of the best things about staying here is how unforced and unhurried everything feels. Waking up early to the sound of birds chirping somehow didn’t bother this decidedly non-morning person at all. Having the patience to sit still and silently observe your surroundings for a moment is rewarded with sightings of butterflies, koi fish, turtles and a number of adorable cats who have been named by the staff, while Buddhist monks from the seminary next door stroll calmly down the stone pathways. It’s a pace of life that you feel privileged to take part in as a guest. No one needs to encourage you to make yourself at home.

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