New York Fashion Week was filled with designer collections that oozed modernity and versatility. Get a sneak peek of what you’ll want to wear next spring.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim went back to his Los Angeles roots this season for a spring collection that was chic and perfect for the beach. The accessories had a touch of Western influence, and the bathing suits, in particular, were a testimony to Lim’s Victorian reference.
The designer’s witty execution of spring was beautifully conceived as a line-up of retro-American soft pastels cascading down a custom-made poolside runway. The collection was built entirely on one-piece dresses. However, Browne convinced us otherwise with the use of various trompe l'oeil techniques. Overall, the emphasis was on the sophisticated mix of fabrics, meticulous arrangement of lines, as well as bold ’60s silhouettes.
Josep Font’s background in architecture shone throughout the collection. The dresses were engineered to flow and fall at impressively precise angles and positions, adding to the chic and dramatic feel of the collection.
We were transported back to New York in the ’80s at the Proenza Schouler show. The house retained its signature pleats while taking inspiration from other forms of art. A good example was the American painter-inspired, heart-shaped cut-out in the bodice. The dramatic statement earrings added a great amount of novelty this season, and the three-dimensional shape of the dresses demonstrated the label’s high level of craftsmanship.
To Marc Jacobs, spring is funky and fun. Besides the rainbow dreadlocks on the models, there was a diverse range of styles, from school girl to rock ’n’ roll looks. The pairing of an intarsia bomber jacket with a shrunken sequined dress, or the combination of metallic hot pants and thigh-high neon socks, might sound strange, yet they were brilliantly executed by the designer.