How Taiwanese craft beers are finding fans in Asia and the West

Taiwan’s beer brewing history dates back to 1919 when the then ruler of Japan established Takasago Malted Beer Company and sold brews as Takasago Beer. Takasago’s successor monopolised the market for decades with light and plain commercial lagers until the country’s accession into the World Trade Organization in 2002 that ended monopoly. Dozens of craft breweries mushroomed, marrying Western craftsmanship with Taiwan’s bounty of agricultural produce from grains, fruits, flours, teas, coffees and cocoas to seaweed, betel nuts and Chinese medicines.

In Taiwan, brewers not only bottle delectable flavours but also stir in stories or humour in concoctions and on labels to lure younger generations.

Taihu Brewing’s new addition, Love Seeker, an adorable pinkish apple cider infused with peach and roselle, is packaged as a “romance magnet” as powerful as Cupid. The pink cans are stealing the hearts of young women. And Sunmai Craft Brewery’s bizarre rendition of Pilsner infused with Taiwanese basil is reminiscent of Taiwan’s night market snacks such as salt and pepper crispy chicken, stir-fried clams with basil, or fried squid rings.

Whimsical as they are, the market is reserved when it comes to embracing heavy Western-style beers. “Regarding taste, the Asian craft beer scene mirrors the US except that there’s a lighter recognisable offering, such as light lager. These are products that will drive smaller Asian businesses if their market presence increases,” says Anthony Chen, lead brewer of AleSmith, a San Diego-based brewery and a multi-gold winner at the World Beer Cup.

“The general picture for East and Southeast Asia is that pronounced bitterness in beer is generally not popular, although people in Asian countries consume bitter gourd, tea and herbs,” says Kjetil Jikiun, founder of Nøgne Ø, Norway’s largest craft brewery, and Solo Beer in Crete, having sold beers to more than 40 countries.

“For starters, people want sweet beers ... at least, sweet aromas. That explains Taiwan’s affinity for fruit beers, which can be sweet and popular. I’ve never observed anything like this in other markets,” he adds. But thanks to craft breweries, beer is morphing from a thirst-quencher at lowbrow eateries under scorching summers into a product that’s part of a finer lifestyle.