From the moment we were collected by our guide, Jigme, who, along with our driver, Tenzin, accompanied us for the duration of our stay, we were looked after royally – visits to monasteries and private sessions with monks, scenic hikes with picnic lunches, shopping excursions to artisan workshops and plenty of pampering.

It started with refreshing towels, water and snacks as we made our way to the first of four new Six Senses lodges (a fifth, in Bumthang, is due to open this spring), in this isolated, spiritual and mystical Himalayan Buddhist kingdom.

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We wound our way past cautionary signs that read: “faster will see disaster”, “be gentle on my curves” or “no worry no hurry” (there are no traffic lights in Bhutan, and seemingly no straight roads, either), to the Thimphu lodge, nestled high above the nation’s capital.

Staff stood ready to welcome us to the fittingly themed Palace in the Sky, the largest of the Six Senses lodges, which boasts a majestic double-height reception lounge and wide-angled mountain panoramas.

A buggy whisked us to our spacious suite, one of 16, which channels Scandi-Bhutanese sauna chic. Think pinewood ceilings, floors and furniture, and a traditional bukhari fireplace, plus stunning views from bed, bath and balcony.

It’s a rustic-luxe style repeated across the lodges to provide continuity, with variations in layout, local touches and motifs setting them apart. More defining are the spectacular surroundings and views of each property, as is the warm hospitality.

In a kingdom where happiness, well-being and mindfulness are paramount, Six Senses does its part to help, with comprehensive spa therapies, meditation and yoga sessions available at each lodge. Thimphu has the bonus of steam and sauna facilities, and an impressive indoor pool.

En route to the former capital of Punakha, we traversed the scenic Dochula Pass, stopping to admire staggering views of Bhutan’s highest peaks.

We stopped also at the magnificent 17th-century Punakha Dzong, and ended with cocktails on the banks of the Pho Chuu (father) and Mo Chuu (mother) rivers.

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An advance team from the lodge had set up a private pop-up bar, where we toasted the sunset with pomegranate martinis, and watched the dzong light up, long after the tourists had gone.

On our arrival at Six Senses Punakha – themed Flying Farmhouse Amidst Rice Fields – we were greeted with a quick neck and shoulder massage, followed by a barbecue dinner under the stars.

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Morning revealed a 16-suite lodge and three villas surrounded by rice terraces, which cascade down to the valley floor. A crescent-shaped heated outdoor pool takes pride of place, and though it was cool, I took the plunge.

Of the few travellers who visit Bhutan, even fewer make it to Gangtey, the most beautiful of the valleys we visited, a magnificent CinemaScope patchwork of radish and buckwheat fields, snaking rivers and mountainous pine forests under a vast canopy of blue sky.

Surveying the scenery from its hillside perch is Six Senses Gangtey, an intimate lodge with just eight suites and one villa. Themed the Traditional Birdwatching Bridge, it felt like a private ski chalet, more so because we had it to ourselves. It would have been easy to simply chill at the lodge, but we roused ourselves at 6am for prayers and breakfast with monks, which despite sub-zero temperatures, was a privileged experience.

The valley is ideal for hiking and mountain-biking, and after doing both, I submitted to a signature Swedana ritual at the lodge’s spa, which involves being locked in what looks like a wooden medieval torture chamber, head exposed, for an intense steam session. Apparently it was supposed to be good for me, but much more enjoyable was the blissful massage that followed.

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Reluctantly, we left for the five-hour return drive to the final Six Senses property, themed Stone Ruins, because of the crumbling monastery it shares the land with. Located high above the Paro valley, it’s blessed with knockout views, though the 16 suites offer less privacy, and lack balconies, a shame as gazing out from them is a magical experience at the other lodges.

The food across Six Senses Bhutan deserves praise. My meals were delicious, healthy, fresh and varied. Many of the herbs, fruit and vegetables are organic, and grown in the lodges’ own gardens, or sourced from local farmers. In one of many sustainability initiatives, Bhutan is likely to become the first country to fully transition to organic farming.

 To be expected of a new lodge, there were teething issues. It took staff more than 24 hours to get the heating right in Thimphu, which also suffered from brief blackouts; there were occasional breakdowns in communication; one of my massages was poor; complimentary yoga sessions weren’t always offered; and I sometimes had to extract information from my guide. None of these, however, detract from a remarkable experience.

On my penultimate day, I hiked up to Paro Taktsang, or Tiger’s Nest, an astonishing monastery built on a cliff face almost a kilometre above the valley floor.

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When I returned to the lodge, my dusty shoes were whisked off to be cleaned, and a masseuse was ready to give me a soothing foot massage.

As the sun set behind ragged peaks, I reflected on my incredible journey. Here, it’s possible to live like a king, or queen, should you be lucky enough to explore Bhutan the Six Senses way.

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