Okinawa’s Shuri Castle is gone – but there are plenty more reasons to visit

Once you arrive, by far the best – and most fun – way to get around the capital Naha is on the monorail that circles the city, including a route direct from the airport. For destinations further afield there are extensive bus networks, car rentals or ferries to the dozens of inhabited outer islands – but here we're focusing on the main island of Okinawa itself.

Parts of the Shurijo Castle Park are open again while other temples and ancient monuments give fascinating insights into the unique local culture.

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All visitors inevitably end up on the aforementioned main street of Naha, one which carries distinct feels of Honolulu thanks to its palm trees and invariably blue skies. Countless stores sell souvenirs, tropical trinkets and a mix of local foods – Okinawan sugar, in particular – while familiar spots such as the Lawson chain of convenience stores remind you that you're in Japan. There are higher-end options, too, if you fancy splurging, but our advice is to hit up some of the side streets to discover a much funkier side to the city.

For example, Anshare Project sells beautiful handcrafted leather belts, purses and more, all made on site by the two young designers hidden behind their work counters. A quick stop at a cafe called Faidama provided one of the best coffees I'd had in Japan, while next door was a seriously old-school knife shop where chefs were busy stocking up on beautiful handcrafted blades. A few doors further down, Garb Domingo had porcelain pieces and artworks to grace any home, just one of dozens of little boutiques that surprised with a hipster vibe.

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Be sure not to miss the main food market with its first-class local produce, much of which is crafted into dishes found nowhere else in Japan, reflecting local culture. “Taco rice” is one quirky favourite, especially at Charlie's Tacos, which has been serving all the elements of tacos – but heaped over steaming rice instead of in crispy taco shells – since 1956.

Local pork is famed for its flavour and appears across menus, especially so behind the century-old wooden frontage of Gotenyama that suggests what Naha once looked like. Its sensational Okinawa soba can be yours for just 600 yen (US$5.45).

Out of Naha, those beaches naturally come calling and dozens of resorts line the coastline. One of the best – and newest – is the very swish Halekulani resort which sits upon 32 acres of national park and boasts spectacular sunset views, private unspoilt beaches and elegant Japanese service.

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American Village is a large series of outlet malls, restaurants, bars and entertainment spots which are joined by a safe beach that is especially popular with families.

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Southeast of Naha, the Peace Memorial Park is a beautiful and sobering reminder of the horrors of the second world war, while other less-explored sides to Okinawa come in a number of beautiful hiking trails that reveal waterfalls, ancient forests and hidden beaches.

Of course, this being Japan there are also typically quirky and charming Japanese attractions too. Check out the surreal Nago Pineapple Park for a fun and fruity way to end your Okinawa discovery.

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