Fine dining after coronavirus – hyperlocal, organic ingredients, takeaways, temperature checks … and no more rock star chefs
As supply chains collapse in a post-globalised world, Covid-19 has not only changed how chefs cook, but what they cook, with a humanist embrace of health and the hyperlocal – and an overdue rebuke of banner names and culinary gimmicks
In what may be a world first, Emmanuel Stroobant of Singapore’s two Michelin-starred Saint Pierre has created a social distancing fine-dining evening out – really an evening in – to be enjoyed with friends, complete with a live appearance of the chef himself “tableside”.
A group of diners pre-order an elegantly presented bento box from the restaurant, which is delivered to each of their homes on their chosen night. They then log in to a Zoom meeting, and when all are gathered, Stroobant joins the party to introduce the meal, as he would to a table of guests celebrating in his restaurant. Diners then continue to enjoy the meal together online.
“I think our Virtual Saint Pierre is unprecedented, but it’s necessary given the times we’re in,” says Stroobant.
Chef Angelo Agliano, director of Michelin-starred Tosca di Angelo at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, is another of the many chefs faced with the dilemma of keeping business running through Covid-19. In response to the challenge of social distancing, he came up with an unusual plan: if some diners prefer to eat in the safety of their own home, he would take the fine dining experience to them.
People are more likely to dine in reliable restaurants that they can trust with a clean environment, strict hygiene … Peace of mind and good food – those are the things people will look for
The Tosca di Angelo Experience at Home allows guests to choose from two seasonal menus that showcase the finest local produce and Italian cooking flair. The restaurant sends not only the ingredients to the diner’s home, but also the chefs, who cook the meal on the spot. A Tosca di Angelo maitre d’ provides service during the meal.
Savvy solutions such as these may help restaurants survive what Simon Rogan, of Michelin-starred Roganic Hong Kong, calls a “catastrophe” that “will forever change the restaurant industry as we know it”. Countless restaurants around the world have already permanently closed their doors and more will undoubtedly follow.
But while that is a tragedy in some cases Vicky Lau, the award-winning chef behind Hong Kong’s Tate Dining Room, sees a silver lining and says the “distress” of the coronavirus pandemic is an opportunity to tear up the rule book.