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Davina Chang’s Paris cafe Bing Sutt was a tribute to Hong Kong – so what’s next for the cookbook author?

STORYGloria Tso
Pineapple bun and egg tart pastries at Davina Chang’s Bing Sutt in Paris. Photo: Handout
Pineapple bun and egg tart pastries at Davina Chang’s Bing Sutt in Paris. Photo: Handout
Food and Drinks

The @thecolordiet content creator moved to Paris and built a thoughtful space serving Hong Kong favourites; she’s since authored a cookbook, A Taste of Hong Kong

Hongkonger Davina Chang has called a cosy corner of Paris’ 3rd Arrondissement hers for the past three and a half years, along with the many customers from near and far who have stopped by her cafe, Bing Sutt. They come in search of a slice of life – and a warm pineapple bun – from her home city.

Chang’s cafe is inspired by the old-school bing sutt, or “ice rooms”, which have offered generations of Hongkongers respite from the brutal summer heat with Western-influenced snacks and drinks. It’s also created a new kind of safe space for Paris’ cosmopolitan, well-travelled community – one that reflects her own multicultural upbringing and the growing demand for diverse, meaningful food and beverage spaces.

Davina Chang is a Paris-based food content creator, former restaurant owner and cookbook author. Photo: Monica Lee
Davina Chang is a Paris-based food content creator, former restaurant owner and cookbook author. Photo: Monica Lee
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It’s also opened up the floor for heartwarming conversations and unexpected changes, says Chang, who hosted a fundraiser for families affected by the Tai Po fires at Bing Sutt last December, and has received many a thank-you note from homesick Hongkongers throughout her time running the cafe, which just closed its doors last week. Having first set up shop in December 2022, the restaurant owner, content creator and now cookbook author is, after many cups of yuen yeung and char siu bowls served, ready to turn the page and pursue another dream.
Beverages on display at Bing Sutt in Paris. Photo: Handout
Beverages on display at Bing Sutt in Paris. Photo: Handout

Long before starting a restaurant of her own, Chang was just a fan of frequenting them. She launched her food page, @thecolordiet, on Instagram while living in New York, just as the city was experiencing a colourful food trend prompted by viral rainbow bagels and doughnuts. “The fact that I was too lazy to cook is why I always ended up in restaurants,” she said as we caught up ahead of Bing Sutt’s closure earlier this month.

Though it took some time for her account to gain traction, the network she gradually built eventually paid off. “Everything was very organic,” she said of the cafe’s opening and growth. “I didn’t really work with press or media, they came to me. I had my Instagram so I had a lot of influencer friends, and they would support and naturally post about it without me telling them to.”

The interior of Bing Sutt in Paris. Photo: Handout
The interior of Bing Sutt in Paris. Photo: Handout
It’s been a “non-stop lifestyle” ever since, said Chang, who has juggled content creation with her full-time barista duties at the cafe. She’s also co-authored a cookbook, A Taste of Hong Kong: 70 Essential Recipes from Asia’s World City, with food stylist and writer Ada Deschanel, who popped into Bing Sutt for a pastry one day – and kept coming back. Never did Chang imagine she would be overwhelmed with opportunities like this. “When I had to start fresh in Paris, I was like, ‘God, I’m never going to get anywhere,’” she laughed. “My husband still talks like, ‘Remember the first time you got an invitation for a poke bowl and how excited you were?’”
Desserts from Ginko Pâtisserie, as seen on Davina Chang’s Instagram. Photo: @thecolordiet/Instagram
Desserts from Ginko Pâtisserie, as seen on Davina Chang’s Instagram. Photo: @thecolordiet/Instagram

Having acclimated to different cities several times throughout her career – perhaps unsurprisingly so, given that she grew up in one of the most international places in the world – Chang is a true Hong Kong kid and third culture individual at heart. She first moved to New York as a university student, then Singapore as a young professional before landing in Paris for business school. Also like many Hongkongers, Chang previously lived a fast-paced life with little time to cook at home, and even less time to reflect on what she truly wanted to do.

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