Is street food a match for fine dining? Michelin ranks hawker stalls on par with Shang Palace, Rang Mahal and Majestic Restaurant
New Michelin Plate ranking introduced in guidebook only serves to highlight mysterious logic behind decision to pick – or exclude – city’s fine eateries
This year saw the introduction of a new designation to further confuse what it means to be a Michelin-listed restaurant.
Previously, restaurants were given a three-, two- or one-star ranking according to their culinary distinctions by anonymous inspectors making their rounds in cities while compiling Michelin Guides.
Restaurants that did not win a star, but were deemed capable of dishing out a good meal for good value at around US$40 or less were awarded a Bib Gourmand.
But from this year, restaurants at which “inspectors have discovered quality food” will be deemed “L’Assiette Michelin” (or “Michelin Plate”) establishments.
With this latest development, there is now more cause for wonder about the validity of Michelin’s authority with regard to Singapore’s gourmet scene.
The new extended version of the guide features 150 establishments – serving mostly street food – including several renowned restaurants that did not earn a one-star recommendation in the new guide or in previous editions.
It would be naive to think that gaining a Michelin Plate recommendation would be consolation for restaurants offering a 10-page menu featuring exquisite creations, yet finding themselves ranked on a par with hawker stalls serving banana fritters (Lim Kee Orchard), or gelato (Birds of Paradise) – which the guide classifies as “street food”.
We review seven top restaurants in Singapore – two with Michelin stars and five without – to try to uncover what mysterious qualities lead one establishment to be included among the star rankings of this arcane guide, and another to be kept out.
Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro, Mandarin Orchard Singapore
(Two stars)