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Leisure

We review Aaharn, where Thai fine-dining finds a Zen-like calm

STORYTracey Furniss
Jungle curry of salt beef. The writer’s favourite Thompson dishes are definitely his curries, where he achieves a perfect balance of flavours.
Jungle curry of salt beef. The writer’s favourite Thompson dishes are definitely his curries, where he achieves a perfect balance of flavours.
First Person

We savour the lobster and pomelo with ginger on betel leaves, deep-fried yellow Pomfret, and the Thai curries, which are David Thompson’s signature dish

The two-storey Armoury Building with the large mango tree shading one side is possibly the best spot in Tai Kwun. You can’t miss it, as it stands at the head of the old parade ground. The ground floor terrace bar has been buzzing day and night since its recent opening – besides wine, cocktails and beer, it also offers coffee, teas and Thai bar snacks.

Aaharn is to the left of the mango tree. Photo: Nora Tam
Aaharn is to the left of the mango tree. Photo: Nora Tam

Upstairs is Aaharn, David Thompson’s first Thai fine-dining restaurant in Hong Kong. An authority on Thai cuisine and receiving accolades for his previous restaurants, Thompson is known also for taking Thai cuisine back to Thailand with great success. Being associated with Nahm for many years, he has broken away from the brand and is now building Long Chim and Aaharn restaurant brands. Oh yes, and he’s written two Thai cookbooks.

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David Thompson at Tai Kwun, outside Aaharn
David Thompson at Tai Kwun, outside Aaharn

As we ascend the stairs, the noise from the bar diminishes and it starts to feel calm and rather Zen. The main dining area feels spacious with the high ceilings and light walls decked with colourful modern artwork illuminated by spotlights in the dimly lit room. There is plenty of natural wood, from the floor boards and beams, to the tables. A balcony overlooks the parade ground, where there is always something going on.

The main dining area features high ceilings and light walls decked with colourful modern artwork illuminated by spotlights.
The main dining area features high ceilings and light walls decked with colourful modern artwork illuminated by spotlights.

We opted for the set menu, as we were hungry (HK$748 per person). We started with a some tasty amuse bouche to whet the appetite and a glass of champagne before launching into the seven-course meal.

Quail’s egg with crunchy pork and chilli
Quail’s egg with crunchy pork and chilli

The canapés arrived with a dainty mouthful of grilled chilli relish with quail’s egg and crunchy pork. The smooth and crunchy textures were followed by the spicy kick.

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