As debate continues about the under representation – and recognition – of women in the restaurant industry, one area of hospitality stands out as bucking the trend. In Hong Kong, all four holders of the prestigious and notoriously tough “masters of wine” accreditation are women. The London-based Institute of Masters of Wine has promoted professional excellence and knowledge of the art, science and business of wine for more than 60 years. China's thirst for wine is outpacing the rest of the world. Here's why Its hyper-exclusive membership now totals only 384 people across 30 countries. In 1970, the first female master of wine was Sarah Morphew Stephen before Jancis Robinson OBE, known to millions through her wine writing, became the first non-trade master of wine, in 1984. In 2008 Jeannie Cho Lee and Debra Meiburg, both based in Hong Kong, became the first two masters of wine from Asia. Today Cho Lee’s résumé includes being an award-winning wine author, television host and educator, while the monthly Decanter magazine named her as the “25th most powerful person in wine”. What really makes me happy is being able to turn people on to wine Jeannie Cho Lee, master of wine She says: “What really makes me happy is being able to turn people on to wine.” The most expensive cocktail in Hong Kong is HK$1,688 – is it worth it? It’s a calling that is being increasingly taken up by women in Asia. “I’ve noticed an increase in interest from both men and women in Asia,” she says. “However in Hong Kong, I see that there are more women pursuing the ‘master of wine’ path and perhaps it is related to the success women have had recently in acquiring this title.” Her fellow master of wine, Meiburg, agrees with this view. She says: “Global master of wines have been predominantly male, but this is changing and a glance at the current student mix reveals a substantially increased number of female candidates. “The examiners, of course, have no idea of a candidate’s gender, as the exam booklet simply states a candidate identification number.” Meiburg, who has lived in Hong Kong for nearly 30 years, was named the “seventh most powerful woman in wine” by Drinks Business magazine. Tt’s a very intense study course, but well worth it – if wine is your absolute passion and life Debra Meiburg, master of wine Her advice to anyone interested in following in her footsteps and becoming a master of wine is to “persevere, and don’t be afraid of failure”. Here’s how you can own a bespoke cask of rare single-malt whisky She says: “Almost all candidates need more than one attempt at either the tasting or theory exam. Don’t be disheartened by this. “Also, stay passionate and very thirsty! It’s a very intense study course, but well worth it – if wine is your absolute passion and life.” Cho Lee adds: “Don’t give up! It takes time, persistence and determination since it is a very tough exam, but if you have the master of wine in your sights, keep going, no matter what anyone says.” Jennifer Docherty was once a wine buyer for British importer Liberty Wines, looking after countries including France, Spain and South Africa. The one-time fashion designer followed her passion and passed her tasting exam on the first attempt in 2015, but offers a word of caution to those setting out to attain the highly coveted master of wine status. “I have seen students attempt to take on the [master of wine] with very little spare time to dedicate to studying due to other commitments,” she says. While there are mythical people with photographic memories that can pass the exams with very little study, the rest of us need to dedicate a substantial amount of time to studying and tasting Jennifer Docherty “While there are mythical people with photographic memories that can pass the exams with very little study time, the rest of us need to dedicate a substantial amount of time to studying and tasting. “I encounter stressed out and sleep-deprived students at seminars and I think to myself, this is supposed to be somewhat enjoyable, otherwise why do it? Life is too short.” Sarah Heller, the fourth master of wine in Hong Kong, graduated from Yale University, in the United States, with a degree in fine art. Why your classic car or fine wine is a great alternative investment Still on 30, she was the world’s youngest master of wine when she passed the exams in 2017. With particular expertise in Italian and Central European wines, Heller also uses her art background in her Instagram series called “Visual Tasting Notes”. It’s one example of her approach to breaking down barriers and connect younger drinkers to the world of wine “As someone with family ties to Asia, Europe and Australasia, I feel well-positioned to try to be a bridge between the wine industry, which tends to [be] older and more male, outside Asia, and young Asian female consumers, who are an incredibly dynamic force in the market,” she says. “ Fortunately, wine is nothing if not a great connector of people.” There’s every chance that some of those dynamic young Asian female consumers will follow in the footsteps of Heller, Cho Lee, Meiburg and Docherty, in keeping up a remarkable run of success as masters of wine in Hong Kong. So what are the favourite wines of Hong Kong’s masters of wine? Jeannie Cho Lee “I have so many, but if I had to choose only one it would be from Lalou Bize-Leroy of Domaine Leroy in Burgundy,” she says. Debra Meiburg “I am a firm supporter of female winemakers, which is why we founded the annual Women of Wine Festival that draws 800 attendees to taste wines only made by women,” she says. “One of my favourite female winemakers is Dr Laura Catena of Bodega Catena Zapata, a fifth-generation winemaker at Argentina’s ‘grand cru’ property.” The bottle of Scotch whisky Christie’s sold in 2018 for US$1.5 million Jennifer Docherty “A particularly pioneering winemaker and lovely person, that also happens to be female, making stunning wine in her own microregion, is Samantha O’Keefe of Lismore in Greyton, South Africa,” she says. “Her wines deserve tracking down, particularly her Chardonnay.” Sarah Heller “I love the wines of Arianna Occhipinti, a winemaker in Sicily who is revitalising the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and making beautifully intricate, perfumed wines,” she says. Want more stories like this? Sign up here . Follow STYLE on Facebook , Instagram and Twitter
