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City Weekend
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Fancy a walk on Hong Kong’s dark side? Take this alternative city tour

From notorious housing problems to income divides and political tensions, two local guides offer a peek at the underside of a glamorous city

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Guide Alla Lau Sui shares stories behind Hong Kong landmarks. Photo: Handout
Hana Davis

Wooden planks, discarded signs and plastic sheets line one side of a bridge along Sham Shui Po’s Tung Chau Street Temporary Market. The blanket of relentless humidity is as heavy as the sombre silence of a tour group led by guide Alla Lau Sui. They are there to see the makeshift dwellings of the homeless – a feature the area is notorious for.

“Hong Kong is a really deceiving society,” Lau says. “It makes sense that tourists only go to the touristy places. From this perspective, Hong Kong seems like a perfect city: it’s crowded, it’s busy, but it’s also glamorous. However, this is not the full story. I think it’s important that we, the local people, are honest about our home.”

‘Like a university lecture’: tourists learn inconvenient truths about Hong Kong

Hong Kong Free Tours began operating in August 2016. It was founded by Michael Tsang Chi-fai, who worked in the finance industries of America and the Netherlands before quitting his job to set up his tour company, comprising just Lau and himself.

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A makeshift shelter for the homeless at Tung Chau Street Temporary Market. Photo: Nora Tam
A makeshift shelter for the homeless at Tung Chau Street Temporary Market. Photo: Nora Tam

“When we started these tours, one of the first things we were certain of was that we didn’t want to do a generic touristy thing,” Tsang says. “The two main messages we want people to take away from this are what has been always in the hearts of Hongkongers.

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“Firstly, the political developments that we focus on in the Hong Kong tour; secondly, the housing problem and the wealth disparity that we explore in our Kowloon tour.”
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