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Life.Culture.Discovery.
Bahamas
PostMagTravel

Eleuthera and Harbour Island – the Bahamas Taylor Swift slips away to

Few visitors go beyond Nassau and Paradise Island, but venturing further reveals historic caves, pink sand and guava duff

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The turquoise waters off Eleuthera Island, in the Bahamas. Photo: Shutterstock
Tara Loader Wilkinson

If you’re looking for a lengthy debate about the merits of authentic cuisine, ask a Bahamian about their grandmother’s recipe for guava duff.

The national dessert of the Bahamas, the duff is a steamed, doughy dumpling furrowed with fresh mashed guava (canned fruit is not acceptable, we are told), served piping hot and swimming in rum-spiked butter sauce. After listening to our waitress wax lyrical, we had to order one at Daddy Joe’s, more a living room than a restaurant in North Eleuthera, on the Bahamas’ Eleuthera Island.

The guava duff feels like a totem of cultural legacy for the islanders, who take pride in the stories and recipes passed on through observation and memory. Everyone’s grandmother makes a version that is slightly different but “infinitely superior”. Ours is densely rich and eye-poppingly sweet. Caveat emptor – after eating one, you might need a lie down.

Spotted eagle rays at dawn off Harbour Island. Photo: Tara Loader Wilkinson
Spotted eagle rays at dawn off Harbour Island. Photo: Tara Loader Wilkinson

With beautiful beaches, outrageously turquoise seas and pastel-hued villages, the Bahamas, an archipelago of more than 700 islands and cays off the coasts of Miami and Cuba, is an aesthetic masterpiece. Most visitors, however, do not venture beyond the all-inclusive resorts, Michelin-starred restaurants, 24-hour casinos and gargantuan water parks of Paradise Island and the capital, Nassau.

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Which is a shame, because Eleuthera and Harbour islands have much to offer.

While American Airlines flies to North Eleuthera from Miami, and Delta from Atlanta, the more common route for international visitors flying into Eleuthera Island’s tiny airport is to arrive in Nassau and hop on a 22-minute Pineapple Air flight.
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Only a curtain separates passengers and pilot on Pineapple’s 15-seat, twin-engined turboprop Embraer and Beechcraft aircraft. Those taller than five foot must shuffle down the aisle crouched over as they look for an empty seat. It helps to calm we nervous fliers to google Pineapple Air’s safety record as we are buckling the seat belts and find that it’s pretty good.

Meeting turtles in North Eleuthera off hotelier Ben Simmons’ boat. Photo: Tara Loader Wilkinson
Meeting turtles in North Eleuthera off hotelier Ben Simmons’ boat. Photo: Tara Loader Wilkinson
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