bodyType

customContents

entityId

printArticlePageQuery

filter

article

body

urlAlias

articleSectionsContent

articleSeoArticle

articleSourceHeaderArticle

contentSchemaRenderContent

contentSubHeadlineContent

contentHeadlineContent

mainImagePrintArticleArticle

authorBlockPrintArticleArticle

contentSponsorTagContent

articlePianoPaywallContent

scmpYoutubeContent

hooksTrackPageViewArticle

query printArticlePageQuery(
  $entityId: String!
  $customContents: [CustomContentInput]
  $bodyType: BodyFormatTypeEnum
) {
  article(filter: {entityId: $entityId}) {
    entityId
    body(customContents: $customContents, type: $bodyType) {
      json
    }
    urlAlias
    ...articleSectionsContent
    ...articleSeoArticle_3o8td4
    ...articleSourceHeaderArticle
    ...contentSchemaRenderContent
    ...contentSubHeadlineContent
    ...contentHeadlineContent
    ...mainImagePrintArticleArticle
    ...authorBlockPrintArticleArticle
    ...contentSponsorTagContent
    ...articlePianoPaywallContent
    ...scmpYoutubeContent
    ...hooksTrackPageViewArticle
    id
  }
}

fragment articlePianoPaywallContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksPaywallPromiseContent
}

fragment articleSectionsContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  sections {
    value {
      ...helpersCheckIfNewsSectionInFirstIndexSection
      ...entityLink
      name
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment articleSeoArticle_3o8td4 on Article {
  ...hooksArticleSeoArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersGetArticleTypeArticle
  entityId
  publishedDate
  updatedDate
  summary {
    text
  }
  subHeadline {
    text
  }
  body(customContents: $customContents, type: $bodyType) {
    text
  }
  keywords
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  topics {
    name
    entityId
    id
  }
  urlAlias
  authors {
    name
    id
  }
  images {
    style(filter: {style: "768x768"}) {
      url
    }
  }
  readingTime
}

fragment articleSourceHeaderArticle on Article {
  urlAlias
  ...entityLink
}

fragment authorBlockPrintArticleArticle on Article {
  ...defaultArticleDateContent
  ...authorNamesArticle
}

fragment authorNameAuthor on Author {
  ...entityLink
  name
  entityUuid
}

fragment authorNamesArticle on Article {
  authorLocations
  authors {
    entityId
    location
    ...authorNameAuthor
    id
  }
}

fragment blockquoteQuoteContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...contentShareWidgetContent
}

fragment checkersCheckContentContainsStarlingImageContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment contentHeadlineContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  headline
  socialHeadline
  ...contentHeadlineTagContent
  ...helpersUseContentSponsorContent
}

fragment contentHeadlineTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksContentHeadlineTagContent
}

fragment contentNewsletterWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    relatedNewsletters {
      ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
      id
    }
    id
  }
  sections {
    value {
      relatedNewsletters {
        ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
        id
      }
      id
    }
  }
  ... on Article {
    relatedNewsletters {
      ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment contentSchemaRenderContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...blockquoteQuoteContent
  ...imageContent
  ...inlineWidgetContent
  ...photoGalleryWidgetContent
  ...scmpYoutubeContent
}

fragment contentShareWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  urlAlias
  shortUrl
  socialHeadline
  headline
}

fragment contentSponsorTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...helpersUseContentSponsorContent
}

fragment contentSubHeadlineContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  subHeadline {
    json
  }
  summary {
    json
  }
  ...contentSchemaRenderContent
}

fragment defaultArticleDateContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksArticleDateUtilsContent
}

fragment entityLink on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  __typename
  entityId
  entityUuid
  urlAlias
  urlRedirect {
    toUrl
    id
  }
  application {
    entityId
    id
  }
  ... on Section {
    fullSectionPath {
      entityId
      id
    }
    parentSection
  }
  ...helpersAppBarVariantBase
  ...helpersApplicationBase
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusArticle
  ...helpersStyleSectionContent
}

fragment helpersAppBarVariantBase on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  ...helpersCheckIsLiveArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  ...helpersSectionContent
  ...helpersStyleSectionContent
}

fragment helpersApplicationBase on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusPage
}

fragment helpersCheckIfNewsSectionInFirstIndexSection on Section {
  name
}

fragment helpersCheckIsAmpEnabledArticle on Article {
  entityId
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  disableOffPlatformContent
  sponsorType
  published
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
}

fragment helpersCheckIsLiveArticle on Article {
  flattenTypeIds
  liveArticle {
    status
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsMainTopicContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPlusArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ... on Article {
    paywallTypes {
      entityUuid
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPlusPage on Page {
  urlAlias
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle on Article {
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle on Article {
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostiesPage on Page {
  urlAlias
}

fragment helpersCheckIsStyleArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersGetArticleTypeArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ... on Article {
    types {
      value {
        entityId
        id
      }
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter on Newsletter {
  entityId
  name
  alternativeName
  description {
    text
  }
  summary {
    text
  }
  homepageDescription {
    text
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizeArticleTypeEntityIdsArticle on Article {
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizeAuthorTypesArticle on Article {
  authors {
    types
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizedAuthorEntityIdsArticle on Article {
  authors {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersSectionContent on Section {
  fullSectionPath {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersStyleSectionContent on Section {
  fullSectionPath {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersUseContentSponsorContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    sponsor {
      ...sponsorTagSponsor
      name
      type
      id
    }
    id
  }
  ... on Article {
    sponsorType
  }
  ...helpersCheckIsMainTopicContent
}

fragment hooksArticleDateUtilsContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  createdDate
  publishedDate
  updatedDate
}

fragment hooksArticleSeoArticle on Article {
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  ...hooksContentHeadlineTagContent
  ...helpersCheckIsAmpEnabledArticle
  entityId
  headline
  socialHeadline
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  authors {
    entityId
    id
  }
  images {
    generic_og: style(filter: {style: "og_image_scmp_generic"}) {
      url
    }
    styles(filter: {styles: ["og_image_posties_article", "og_postmag", "og_image_style", "og_image_scmp_analysis", "og_image_scmp_explainer", "og_image_scmp_editorial", "og_image_scmp_fact_check", "og_image_scmp_debate", "og_image_scmp_live", "og_image_scmp_obituary", "og_image_scmp_opinion", "og_image_scmp_review", "og_image_scmp_series", "og_image_scmp_generic"]}) {
      url
      style
    }
    type
  }
  urlAlias
}

fragment hooksContentHeadlineTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  __typename
  ... on Article {
    types {
      value {
        name
        entityId
        description {
          text
        }
        id
      }
    }
    ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  }
  flag
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  ...hooksContentHelperContent
}

fragment hooksContentHelperContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...helpersSanitizeArticleTypeEntityIdsArticle
  ...helpersSanitizeAuthorTypesArticle
  ...helpersSanitizedAuthorEntityIdsArticle
  flag
}

fragment hooksPaywallPromiseContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
}

fragment hooksTrackPageViewArticle on Article {
  entityId
  publishedDate
  headline
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  urlAlias
  authors {
    name
    id
  }
  entityUuid
}

fragment imageContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  headline
  ...checkersCheckContentContainsStarlingImageContent
}

fragment inlineWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...contentNewsletterWidgetContent
}

fragment mainImagePrintArticleArticle on Article {
  images {
    title
    url
    isSlideshow
    size_652x446: style(filter: {style: "652x446"}) {
      url
    }
  }
}

fragment photoGalleryDialogContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  __typename
  ...contentShareWidgetContent
}

fragment photoGalleryWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...photoGalleryDialogContent
}

fragment scmpYoutubeContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  urlAlias
  publishedDate
}

fragment sponsorTagSponsor on Sponsor {
  name
  type
  images {
    url
  }
}


sections

types

disableOffPlatformContent

sponsorType

published

headline

socialHeadline

authors

images

publishedDate

updatedDate

summary

subHeadline

keywords

topics

readingTime

authorLocations

entityUuid

Christina Pfeiffer

1 Esplanade

Helsinki's  Pohjoisesplanadi is a great place to wander around and soak in  the city's atmosphere. Roaming string quartets entertain cafe-goers with  renditions of lively classical music - such as Brahms' Hungarian Rhapsody - till the wee hours of the morning. People  dance on the pavements, and rock bands belt out modern numbers  in English and Finnish. There are many  fine restaurants, as well as pubs and cafes where the strong, full-bodied taste of Lapin Kulta, the local beer, is the favoured brew.

2 Suomenlinna sea fortress

One of the world's largest maritime fortresses, Suomenlinna was built in  the 1700s across six islands  off Helsinki's coast and has been a  Unesco World Heritage site since 1991. The 15-minute ferry ride to Suomenlinna from Market Square is  fun and provides a view of the magnitude of this enormous fortress from the sea. The Suomenlinna Museum  on the main island chronicles its history, and is certainly worth a look. The Swedish, who once ruled Finland, built the fortress as their main point of defence to counter the ambitions of Russia's Peter the Great. Suomenlinna  is very much a living museum: its 1,000 or so residents, who commute to the mainland  to work,  live in charming wooden heritage houses or barracks that have been converted into apartments. It's a popular place  for Helsinki day-trippers who love sunbathing on the rocky cliffs or just idling the time away in one of the sea-view cafes. The many tunnels of the  old fortress are fascinating to explore, but be prepared for a lot of walking (www.suomenlinna.fi).

3 Senate Square

Senate Square  has historical importance for Finns. It was  planned when Finland became part  of the Russian empire in 1809. The cathedral, Government Palace and  the university  were designed  by  C.L. Engel, Finland's most prominent 19th-century architect. The cathedral is an imposing work of art that dominates the square with its stark, white walls  and green domes. Engel  worked on  it from 1818 until his death in 1840. The architecture around the square is  19th-century neo-classical, and is impressive.  In the centre stands the only remaining statue of Russian tsar Alexander II. The south side of the square is lined with 18th- to 19th-century merchant houses that have been converted into  offices, shops  and restaurants.

4 Sibelius Park

The main reason to visit  is to see  the strange monument that was built  in honour of Finnish composer Jean Sibelius.  This enormous work is fashioned from silver tubes in an artistic interpretation of the pipes of an organ. Sibelius' music is played everywhere  in Finland. His best-known work, Finlandia, is a turbulent and emotional piece that signifies the awakening of Finland as a nation.

5 Market Square

Cans of reindeer meat, several varieties of smoked salmon, smoked Baltic herring, yellow berries and packets of smoked moose are some  of the delicacies sold at the stalls  in the indoor Market Hall. At the outdoor stalls, by the waterfront, the strawberries are plentiful and  juicy during summer. Souvenir stalls that  sell the likes of  wooden animals, Finnish knives and pelts stand   against a backdrop of pastel-coloured historical buildings, including the creamy yellow President's Palace and the blue City Hall.  The red brick and golden cupolas of the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral add a mysterious air to the skyline.

6 Temppeliaukio  (The Church in the Rocks)

Designed by  Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, the rock church is a  unique place of worship. Excavated from a rocky outcrop, it looks like a modest  cave. It has a 25-metre circular copper dome with steel-framed skylight windows  that allow the light to shine through  onto rough-hewn granite walls. Sit and soak in the ambience while listening to the strains of Sibelius' music in the background.

7 Finlandia Hall

Helsinki's architectural mixture  of ancient and modern makes it an  interesting place to  see. Finlandia Hall, Helsinki's main concert hall, is a modern building that's distinctively Finnish.  Cubist shapes and marble walls combine to form a decorative entity, while its design is both ornamental and functional. It has a tower-like section with a sloping roof that covers the whole building. The large asymmetrical auditorium has no right angles. There's a 1,700-seat hall and a smaller, 340-seat auditorium that  are separated by a landscaped foyer.  Alvar Aalto was the designer (www.finlandia.hel.fi).

8 Saunas

The best way to experience some quintessential Finnish culture is to head for a sauna. In Helsinki, sitting in a steamy room full of strangers with not  a stitch of clothing on seems to be the most natural thing in the world. Most  of the saunas are  well-patronised. For those  not used to being nude in public, try to  ignore the initial discomfort - the embarrassment will pass.  There are separate sections for men and women. The Kotiharjun Sauna is popular and convenient.  The Finnish Sauna Society has five firewood saunas and three traditional smoke saunas to choose from. Kotiharjun Sauna: Harjutorinkatu 1, Helsinki, tel: (358) 9753 1535; Finnish Sauna Society (www.sauna.fi), tel: (358) 9686 0560.

9 Beach and summer fun

In summer, Helsinki's only beach  is packed with people sunbathing, swimming or just enjoying a beer. The sun  is out almost 23 hours a day, and the people of Helsinki have found  many ways to enjoy  it.  Take advantage of the extensive bicycle tracks that lead  around the foreshore, the trampoline areas, bungee-jumping facilities, water activities and green parks. Among  the more unusual sights you might encounter are  people  bungee-jumping in gorilla suits or washing their carpets in the sea.

10 Museums

Invest in a Helsinki Card for unlimited use of  public transport and admission to most of the city's 80 museums. The Cygnaeus Gallery, set  in a lovely wooden villa, has a great collection of 19th- and 20th-century Finnish paintings and sculpture. There are Finnish woodwork, ceramics and fine arts exhibits at the Helsinki City  Art Museum. And for transport buffs, there's a good aviation museum with more than 70 aircraft on  display,  as well as a fascinating tram museum.



Perfect 10