Squid is a wonderfully versatile seafood - it's delicious when stir-fried, deep-fried, steamed and, of course, barbecued. It's the perfect platform for any bright, blond flavours such as ginger, lemongrass and saffron. When marinating squid for the barbecue, take care when adding salt, as most sea creatures are sufficiently salty. Also, don't use too much oil because it will make the barbecue flare up and turn the raw squid black. The best wine with barbecued squid should be fresh and direct. Structured wines with good backbone are highly desirable.
Weingut Jurtschitsch Sonnhof Gruener Veltliner Dechant Alte 2007, Austria It's taken a while for the delicious gruener veltliner grape, which is rarely used outside Austria, to make it to Hong Kong. It can be sublime with 15 years of bottle age, but when young, it's frisky and welcoming. It has aromas of pears and the spice rack, including white pepper, and is always satisfying and giving. This particular bottle is a mouthful to pronounce, but it's the perfect match with barbecued squid marinated in kaffir lime juice and chopped leaves - and don't forget to add some chilli. Available for HK$203 from At Style International (tel: 6593 1859)