Much of the tuna we get nowadays is farmed in deep waters by big fleets that stay at sea for weeks at a time. The most highly prized cut is toro, or fatty tuna belly; the fat in this part insulates the tuna's organs from the cold waters while the rest of the muscles work hard at propelling the fish in its constant hunt for food.

For my tastes, however, the sweetest, most succulent part of the fish is actually the transparent pink flesh on either side of the upside-down 'T' the length of the tuna's skeleton. There are many versions of tuna tartare using different parts of the fish and different seasonings. When it's made by a good chef, the seasoning should be mild to complement rather than disguise the tuna. It should also be texture driven - some egg white and good olive oil will heighten the softness of the fish. The best drink with tuna tartare needs to lift and integrate with the dish. The high notes shouldn't be stratospheric, but close to the fullness of the fish; and the texture can come either from alcohol glycerol creaminess or the sensation of freshness from the natural acidity.