Perfect match

That old 'white wine with white meat' rule doesn't apply in this part of the world. There are endless ways to cook chicken and not all of them result in a dish that matches white wine. Take crispy chicken marinated with nam yu (red fermented beancurd paste), for instance. This Cantonese classic is difficult to do well - the skin should be crisp but not oily and the meat moist. The aroma is heady and seductive, with a nutty richness and sweet depth. A wine to accompany this dish should contain fruit that is either level and mature or fresh and vibrant.

Wooing Tree Blondie pinot noir 2009, Central Otago, New Zealand

More strawberry blond than bottle blond in colour, this is pinot noir at its best. It's essentially a rose made from black pinot noir grapes; the juice has just enough contact with the grape skins to add a bit of colour. The vibrant fruit marries nicely with the richness of the nam yu and the succulence of the chicken. And, unlike other roses, it's welcomingly dry.

Available for HK$240 at At Style Wine (www.atstylewine.com)

Misha's Vineyard The High Note pinot noir 2008, Central Otago

New Zealand's pinot noir superman, Olly Masters (formerly of Ata Rangi), has shaken up his new project, Misha's Vineyard. This wine is supple and silky, with lovely savoury tones. It's a good match with the crispy chicken skin because the nam yu soaks up the high-quality oak, giving it a strong base and widening the flavour range. The wine's seductive fragrance is further lifted by the deep-fried chicken notes.

Available for HK$312 at Jebsen Fine Wine Club (tel: 3180 3424)

Berry Bros Gevrey Chambertin 2000, Burgundy, France

Gevrey Chambertin is one of the larger and more famous Burgundy communes. Its wines are usually reliable but seldom do they deliver their full potential - it takes time and money to cellar the bottles in the right conditions. However, this Berry Bros bottling is fantastic. The 2000 vintage has earthy notes that match the chicken's crisp skin and the equally earthy nam yu.

Available for HK$285 at Berry Bros & Rudd (tel: 2110 1680)