Perfect match

That old 'white wine with white meat' rule doesn't apply in this part of the world. There are endless ways to cook chicken and not all of them result in a dish that matches white wine. Take crispy chicken marinated with nam yu (red fermented beancurd paste), for instance. This Cantonese classic is difficult to do well - the skin should be crisp but not oily and the meat moist. The aroma is heady and seductive, with a nutty richness and sweet depth. A wine to accompany this dish should contain fruit that is either level and mature or fresh and vibrant.

Wooing Tree Blondie pinot noir 2009, Central Otago, New Zealand

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