A Hong Kong climber is focused on technique over strength for the notoriously challenging bouldering problems at this weekend’s Internation Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup in Hachioji, Japan.
“I’ve let my friends set more complicated routes for training, instead of routes that need power,” Hei Yeung-lam said. “Japan is usually the most complicated competition on the circuit.”
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing. Typically, each ‘problem’ is only a few metres off the ground so climbers do not need ropes, and the limited moves mean they can be pushed technically without worrying about endurance or rope work.
Hei believes he prospers on routes that require balance and flexibility, rather than brute strength, so this weekend’s competition could play into his hands.
WATCH: Bouldering finals in Chongqing
But two weeks ago, he competed in China in the Chongqing leg of the World Cup and could not complete any of the first three problems.
“I know I could have topped the routes,” he said. “I thought about the three problems the wrong way. I figured out the right way, but only after I had lost time.”
Following this weekend’s competition, Hei will focus on the Asian Games in Jakarta in August, but first he is determined to reach the semi-finals in Japan.