Everest deaths: climber numbers manageable but low experience levels cause traffic jams, says top guide Adrian Ballinger

Adrian Ballinger says huge number of climbers isn’t to blame for traffic jams that have contributed to 11 deaths over the past week

Lack of experience – from climbers to Sherpas and guides – creates ‘herd mentality’ that increases risk

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Adrian Ballinger sits atop Everest, becoming one of about 200 climbers to reach the peak without supplementary oxygen. Photo: Handout

Published: 12:47pm, 28 May 2019Updated: 9:08pm, 28 May 2019

The long snaking line of climbers photographed as they pushed for the summit of Everest caused outrage at the amount of people permitted to climb, but one experienced guide believes the numbers are manageable.

Adrian Ballinger, who has guided for 12 seasons on the world’s highest peak, said it is the lack of experience for all involved that caused the traffic jams that resulted in at least some of the 11 deaths over the last week on Everest.

“The problem on the mountain is not that there are too many people, or too few summit days,” he said. “It’s experience.

“There are clients with no experience. There are Sherpas with too little training so they can’t make a decision about turning a client around.

Traffic jams for the summit of Everest have caused outrage, with calls for fewer permits to be given. But Adrian Ballinger says the route can take 100 climbers a day if they spread out over the window. Photo: Project Possible

“Then, there are too few guides above them. At all three levels, there is not enough experience.”