Rugby World Cup: looking for a rugby buzz in multifaceted and sprawling Tokyo
- Despite four huge matches on the card this weekend including the Japanese team, the Rugby World Cup has to share the stage in the world’s largest city.
But, again, there are 38 million people in Tokyo so there should be plenty of room for alternative passions. As the tournament, pared down to eight teams from 20, heads into the business end of things this weekend, it should not take much sleuth work to detect a palpable buzz. Pretty much everyone in the country is aware Japan will be playing on Sunday night against South Africa. But are they rugby fans or Japan fans?
Hopefully both, which is why our research leads us down to Shirokane in an unpretentious southern part of town. Sandwiched between Azabu and Ebisu, two narcissistic hoods that just love their own reflection, Shirokane strikes a perfect balance between gentrification and urban grit. It’s real here and no place is more real than Day and Night, an old school diner under an overpass that is a Hollywood cinematographers dream.
Shunsuke is the genial owner and head chef. He is grilling up a Philly Cheese Steak while The Spinners’ classic It’s A Shame melodically fills the air. Day and Night seems like the target demographic for a growing sport like rugby, it’s young, hip, cool and welcoming. So what about it Shun-san, has there been a buzz over the World Cup in Shirokane? “Hmmm, not here,” he says. “Maybe in Ebisu a bit.”
Well surely, I ask, you will be glued to the tube for the epic matches on Saturday when England play Australia followed by the All Blacks and Irish? “No, working,” he says.
I poll a cross section of diners, there are only three others, and they all basically say the same. As far as Shun-san knows, there are no viewing parties planned in Shirokane even for Japan and South Africa on Sunday night. One girl tells me, however, that she might watch the Japan series baseball championship between the Yomiuri Giants and Softbank Hawks this weekend.
One thing seems certain though, if rugby wants to grow it will have to be on the heels of the Japanese teams riveting run in the tournament
Drifting north towards the middle of town the vibe is much more worldly. Harajuku is a very hip and funky hood in its own right with international cachet to boot. Bordering Harajuku is Omote-sando, a bustling strip of high-end shops and stunning modern architecture that is one of the most expensive areas in Tokyo.
There are so many things to do in this area, and most do not involve watching rugby. But smack dab in the middle of the hood is the area’s one genuinely authentic pub, the Baird Beer Taproom. “The Rugby World Cup has been tremendous for us,” says John Chesen, senior partner and general manager. Baird has four different locations and, according to Chesen, business has been up. “Close to 40 per cent from one year ago. Of course, we are packed to the rafters when Japan play, but it’s pretty much every match for us. We have a lot of real ales and rugby fans really like their ales.”
Chesen claims their regular clientele is usually a 60/40 mix of locals and foreigners. “But during the World Cup it’s been closer to 50/50,” he says. “We did extensive marketing and promotion using social media posts and choosing geographic targets of each participating nation and the demographic rugby fans.”
Up north in Nippori, there is no targeted demographic and not many new construction sites either. A textile and clothing market hub, property agents call this area “retro chic”, which is code speak for old. Few places or people seem older than Nippori Fabric shop and its proprietor.
The small company selling used clothes and fabric has been in the family since 1925, according to Shohei, who adds that his father would be 150 years old if he was still alive. I don’t even want to do the maths to figure out how old he is, but I do tell him that Shohei is a very famous baseball name these days.
“Ah, Ohtani-san,” he says, and his face lights up at the mere mention of the uniquely gifted Japanese pitcher and slugger playing with the Los Angeles Angels who shares the same first name. “I like baseball,” he says.
Yes, but what about rugby. Big weekend coming up, four huge matches, you all in Shohei-san? “I like baseball,” he says. And all your friends and the rest of Nippori? “Baseball,” he says.
So maybe there isn’t a rugby buzz in Nippori, but then again it’s an ancient hood full of ancient folks and not necessarily the targeted demographic for growth. One thing seems certain though, if rugby wants to grow it will have to be on the heels of the Japanese teams riveting run in the tournament. However, if they can pull off another upset or two then the Rugby World Cup will be impossible to ignore, even in Shirokane and Nippori.
