Curry, afternoon tea, interesting wine – where a South African bar owner goes to eat and drink in Hong Kong

Leigh-Ann Luckett, owner of Sai Ying Pun wine bar Crushed, reveals where she goes for ‘consistently tasty Thai food’ and samosas that are ‘giant, delicious’
She names a spot with ‘unique warmth‘, a fun place to eat dim sum – and her top places to eat at in South Africa

Food and Drinks

Andrew Sun

Published: 12:45pm, 21 Feb 2024

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South African native Leigh-Ann Luckett is the owner of Sai Ying Pun wine bar Crushed. She spoke to Andrew Sun.

We weren’t a wildly foodie family, honestly. Dinners at home were usually utilitarian, but my mum managed restaurants so I was spoiled with restaurant food at her work. My paternal grandmother did teach me to love baking.

I’m very much a person who lives to eat. There is very little that makes me as unhappy as a bad meal.

For a low-key lunch, I love Kam Cheung Pork Noodle (Shop C, 316-320 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun. Tel: 2857 6738); the entrance is on Water Street. Get there before the queues.

It’s famous for the pork chop noodle, but the curry chicken is also tasty.

Krua Walaiphan (29 High Street, Sai Ying Pun. Tel: 2904 4155) is another staple for great value, consistently tasty Thai food, although I’m often getting that delivered.

Leigh-Ann Luckett grew up in South Africa and moved to Hong Kong, where she runs Crushed wine bar in Sai Ying Pun. Photo: Crushed

My favourite late-night snacks are the samosas from Saffron (188 Queens Road West, Sai Ying Pun. Tel: 2333 0093). They’re giant, delicious and only HK$10 (US$1.30).

The family who run the store are always engaging and I love that you can pay forward a meal for someone else in need.

For a gorgeous dinner, Brut! (Shop C, 1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun. Tel: 3460 5863) remains one of my best experiences. Yes, I am biased, having worked there on and off since it opened. But it still has a unique warmth that’s rare to find, especially in a setting where a chef’s tasting menu is served. The food has also stayed consistently interesting and innovative without feeling contrived.

Another place you’ll find me often is Call Me Al (123 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan), another excellent example of proper hospitality. It’s done a great job making the space feel like a home away from home, whether you’re with a group or just perched at the bar with a book.

For visitors, Nove at the Fringe (1/F, The Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Road, Central. Tel: 2130 6546) is a lovely experience in a gorgeous, refined setting. The food is elegant and the wine list is interesting.

For something more casual, Dim Sum Square (LG/F, 78 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan. Tel: 3521 0868) is always fun.

For an extravagant treat, I recently took my mum to 181 at Fortnum & Mason (Shop 022 & 122, K11 Musea, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: 3916 8181) for high tea, which was a lovely way to spend an afternoon, especially since they have an option for a savoury tea set, complete with savoury scones.

Truffled Yuen Long chicken with wilted greens and morel mushroom sauce at Neighborhood in Hong Kong. Photo: Susan Jung

For dinner, Neighborhood (61-63 Hollywood Road, SoHo. Tel: 2617 0891) is a nice option for something a little more lively, whereas for exceptional food in a slightly more formal setting, 8 1/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana (Shop 202, 18 Chater Road, Central. Tel: 2537 8859) is a wonderful experience.

I do love to cook, so if I’m feeling particularly nostalgic, I’ll order South African staple meats from Biltong Chief (www.biltongchief.com).

Whenever I go back to Cape Town, the food scene blows me away. The burgers at Clarke’s (133 Bree Street, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 21 424 7648), an old-school hipster joint, make it a must-visit every time.

But my splurge is always La Colombe (Constantia Main Road, Silvermist Wine Estate, South Africa. Tel: +27 21 794 2390) for a four-hour, eight-course lunch. Set on a hilltop above a vineyard in an old farmhouse-type setting, the space is light and airy.

Despite being more fine dining, it’s still welcoming and engaging – and the food consistently delicious.

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