Cooking classes in Sri Lanka

Sri Lankan cuisine features scorching chillies, spicy curries, crisp breakfast hoppers (a bowl-shaped pancake made from rice flour and coconut milk) and tangy pickles, and although you can taste influences from neighbouring India and the Dutch and Portuguese colonists, Sri Lanka's food is uniquely its own. And Ella, a sleepy village nestled in the hill country, is one of the best places to sample it.

"Ella is famous for its cooking," says Chandika Madusanka, who runs one of the town's most popular cookery classes. The cooler weather in the mountains is good for growing not only the tea that Sri Lanka is famous for, but also the pandan and curry leaves that show up in local dishes.

"In Ella we use more spices and less chilli powder," Madusanka says, explaining that when chilli isn't overwhelming the nuances of the curries become more apparent. "Here, you can enjoy the real flavour of the cuisine without any trouble."

Sri Lanka doesn't have much of a restaurant culture, so the best way to sample the local specialties is to dine in homes and family-run guest houses. Although dinners are deceptively referred to as simply "rice and curry", they are actually elaborate meals made up of multiple dishes. Vegetarians are easily accommodated, as most meals do not contain fish or meat.

Ella is not only a great place to enjoy the food, it offers many options for learning to cook like a Sri Lankan, too. Women spend hours preparing the family dinner, and those who run guest houses are often happy to allow their guests to watch and learn. For those looking for more formal instruction, here are a few options. Be sure to book at least a day in advance.