Farm-raised salmon has a flabby texture that I dislike when it's served just as a large piece of seared or steamed fish (wild salmon is another story, though). But it's perfectly fine when used in fish cakes.
These fish cakes get even more flavour with the addition of hot-smoked (also called wood-smoked) salmon, which has a very different taste from cured or cold-smoked versions. I like to mix in a little curry powder, then top off the pan-fried salmon cakes with a good dollop of yogurt and some ikura (salmon caviar).
Scrub the potatoes but do not peel them. Put them in a saucepan and add salted water to cover, then place the pan over a medium flame and bring to a boil. Lower the flame then simmer the potatoes until tender but not mushy. Drain them and, when they're cool enough to handle, strip off the skins. Roughly mash the potatoes while they are still hot. Cool to room temperature.
Sprinkle salt lightly over the entire piece of salmon then place it on a heat-proof plate. Boil some water in the bottom of a tiered steamer, place the plate in the steamer, cover with the lid and steam for 10 minutes for every 2.5cm (1in) of thickness, measured at the fillet's thickest point. (If you don't have a tiered steamer, pour water to the depth of about 5cm (2in) in a wok and bring to the boil. Put a round metal rack with low feet in the wok. Place the plate on the rack, cover the wok with the lid and steam.) Remove the fish from the steamer and let it cool to room temperature.
Mince the spring onions. Whisk the egg with a little salt.
Break the steamed salmon into large flakes and add them to the bowl with the potato. Tear the smoked salmon into strips and add them to the bowl along with the egg, spring onion, curry powder, and salt and pepper to taste. Gently but throughly mix the ingredients.
Shape the mixture into six to eight patties and lay them on a baking tray. Refrigerate for about an hour, or until chilled - this firms up the patties so they are less likely to fall apart when cooked.
Pour oil to the depth of about 3mm (⅛in) in a skillet placed over a medium-low flame. Coat the patties with the panko, pressing so the bread crumbs adhere.
Pan-fry the patties until they're heated through and lightly browned, then carefully flip them over and brown the other side.
Put the salmon cakes on three or four plates and add a dollop of yogurt. Spoon some of the ikura on top then garnish with micro greens or shipped chives. Serve with lemon wedges.