Why Sarawak laksa is this foodie’s perfect dish, and the one place where Anthony Bourdain loved to eat it

Agnes Chin, co-founder of Cookie Smiles in Hong Kong, rates Sarawak laksa as her all-time favourite comfort food, to be eaten for breakfast or lunch

While living in Hawaii, she discovered Vietnamese cuisine and knows exactly where to get the best pho and grilled fish around

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Laksa served at Mom’s Laksa Kopitam restaurant in Sarawak, Malaysia. The traditional dish is Agnes Chin’s all-time favourite comfort food. Photo: Agnes Chin

Published: 12:15pm, 2 Sep 2020Updated: 6:11pm, 3 Sep 2020

Agnes Chin grew up in Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo, and Hawaii. She is the co-founder of Cookie Smiles, a Hong Kong social enterprise offering cookies with gluten-free and vegan options that supports charities for the disadvantaged.

When I was living in Hawaii, I discovered Vietnamese food. Many refugee immigrants settled there and grow their own herbs and vegetables in its rich soil.

Every Vietnamese cafe run by a home cook offered great pho and delicious grilled fish with fresh herb sauce. One of the best is Pho Bistro 2 (1694 Kalakaua Ave #C, Honolulu, Hawaii, tel: +1 808 949 2727). It’s a very small bar, but very reasonably priced.

In Hong Kong, Le Garcon Saigon (12-18 Wing Fung Street, Wan Chai, tel: 2455 2499) is the best equivalent.

Dry noodles at Pho Bistro 2 restaurant in Honolulu, Hawaii. Photo: Agnes Chin

My all-time comfort food is Sarawak laksa. The herbs and shrimp paste makes it very different in texture, taste and aroma to other laksas, not too rich but aromatic. It’s a breakfast or lunch dish, not to be missed when you visit Kuching, Malaysia.