Why Hong Kong’s taste for an endangered reef fish is a problem, and how to eat seafood sustainably
- The endangered humphead wrasse is a delicacy served at some Hong Kong restaurants. Diners may not know it, but some are imported illegally
- World Oceans Day is a good time to remind people there is help available for them to make informed choices about the seafood on their plates and eat responsibly
Humphead wrasse is often dished up at seafood restaurants in Hong Kong. Considered a delicacy, it has been known to fetch as much as US$850 per kilogram.
But many people may not be aware that the majestic creature, also called Napoleon wrasse and admired for its vivid colouring and intricate markings, is one of the world’s most endangered coral reef fish.
While trade in the species is restricted in Hong Kong and requires permits from the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD), environmentalists say it should be taken off menus altogether.
The slow-breeding fish, which can grow to two metres (6.5 feet) long and take five years to reach adulthood in the wild, is under threat from overfishing.
In 2004, its status was upgraded from vulnerable to endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, which sets the conservation status of animal species. It is also listed as endangered by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Fauna and Flora (Cites).
In her past research, Sadovy uncovered an illegal trade in reef fish between Indonesia and Hong Kong. Indonesia is the only legal exporter of humphead wrasse, and Hong Kong is a major importer, with many of the fish re-exported to mainland China. Most are sold as juveniles.
“It’s important to report any suspicious sightings to the AFCD so it can check to make sure they are legal imports,” says Sadovy. It’s also important to raise public awareness about the species’ fragile status, she says.
Every one of us can play a part in supporting sustainable seafood. We can encourage restaurants to provide sustainable options
The world-first technology, she says, will help enforcement officials – as well as members of the public and restaurateurs – distinguish between legally and illegally traded fish.
“Because individual fish are not tagged, the traceability and tracking of them creates enforcement challenges such as the inability to distinguish between legally and illegally imported fish,” Hau says.
Stocks, he adds, can easily be replenished with illegally sourced and undocumented humpheads that are smuggled into Hong Kong with shipments of other fish.
According to AFCD data, there were no consignments of humphead wrasse imported into Hong Kong in 2021 and 2022, as the trade was disrupted by the Covid-19 pandemic. The last legal import of the species was in April 2023: one consignment of 468 live humphead wrasse.
“Any person importing, exporting or possessing specimens of endangered species not in accordance with the ordinance is liable to a maximum fine of HK$10 million (US$1.3 million) and imprisonment for 10 years upon conviction with concerned specimens forfeited,” an AFCD spokesman stated, adding that the department conducts occasional inspections of local markets.
Hong Kong is the second highest consumer per capita of seafood in Asia, and the seventh highest in the world, and Hau says Hong Kong can take more steps to promote sustainable seafood.
One important way, he says, is adopting a comprehensive seafood labelling system for pre-packaged seafood to show important information for tracking the source and assessing the sustainability of products, including species name, country/region of origin and production method.
“This is not just essential for ensuring sustainability but for traceability and food safety of the seafood products,” he says.
While governments and the fishing industry – as well as restaurants – play major roles in how seafood stocks are managed and sustained, consumers can also help by making informed choices.
“Every one of us can play a part in supporting sustainable seafood,” Hau says. “By choosing sustainable seafood and suggesting that family, relatives and friends follow, we can generate market demand for sustainable seafood and encourage the supply side – fisheries, shops and restaurants – to explore and provide more sustainable options.”
But knowing what’s OK to eat and what’s not is tricky.
That is where WWF Hong Kong lends a hand – with a sustainable seafood guide which covers more than 70 popular species found in the city’s wet markets, supermarkets, frozen-food shops and restaurants.
“These species are either overfished, endangered, sourced from destructive fishing methods like bottom trawling or unsustainable aquaculture,” says Hau. Members of the public should check a species’ name, origin and production method against the guide when purchasing or consuming seafood, he says.
The Hong Kong Sustainable Seafood Coalition comprises members of the seafood industry and aims to advance sustainability through good sourcing practices. To mark World Oceans Day, it has organised a sustainable seafood promotional campaign, with participants including numerous top restaurants in Hong Kong and Macau, which will run until June 16.
“To further protect our oceans, species that reproduce late and therefore are vulnerable to overfishing are not featured on our menus,” he adds.
