Dumplings with a twist, tacos and modern Chinese food: where a French chef who does not ‘do too much fine dining’ eats in Hong Kong
- Romain Dupeyre, co-executive chef of French bistro Racines in Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan district, shares an Indian-French place that is ‘seconds from my flat’
- He reveals where he goes for dumplings with a French twist, the restaurant to go for fine dining, the ‘prime place to go for Mexican’ and a spot for turtle soup
Chef Romain Dupeyre grew up in Nice, France, and is now co-executive chef of Provencal cuisine bistro Racines in Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, on Hong Kong Island. He spoke to Andrew Sun.
My mum was not a really good cook. All the men in my family are the cooks. Mum was a busy nurse so she always served prepared meals.
It was my dad and my grandad who cooked authentic meals like brandade, which is salted cod with mashed potatoes. They also made ratatouille, fish dishes, gambero (prawn) and tabbouleh salads.
I spend a lot of time here at my restaurant in Sheung Wan, so for casual dining I tend to stay in the area. I like to go to Pondi (14 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun. Tel: 6113 0195). It’s a small place.
The chef is a local guy named George Kwok, doing Indian-French sharing style of cuisine. It’s really casual, not too expensive, and it’s really chill. Best of all, it’s seconds from my flat.
Recently, he opened Shop B (Shop B, 10-14 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun. Tel: 9591 0199) next door. It’s more casual, modern Chinese.
For classic French, I like Bouillon (6 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan. Tel: 2886 0056). It’s like our sister restaurant. When you want something French that’s a little bit casual, this is a good place.
Once in a while, I want some dim sum, but I am not that picky. I just stop by the first place I see and grab some dumplings. But I do like Man Mo Dim Sum (G/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan) which does French dumplings, which is actually quite cool.
You have the feeling of eating some local food but with French flavours so it’s half-half experience. I do think they are underrated because it’s a good idea.
I also go a lot to Chachawan (206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan. Tel: 2549 0020). I lived in Thailand for two years, so I really enjoy eating Thai food. Even in my cooking, there are a lot of Thai influences here and there.
So that’s overall the few restaurants I will say.
I don’t do too much fine dining, but when I do I like to go to Louise (G/F, JPC, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Mid-Levels. Tel: 5722 3269). Everything is very straightforward. It’s sharing-style too but a bit more premium.
My wife is Mexican, so we have to have a lot of Mexican food. El Taquero (Shop B-F, Yan King Court, 119 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai. Tel: 2811 1998) is a prime place to go for Mexican at the moment. But we also order a lot from a friend who cooks Mexican food.
My wife will order tacos made with fresh tortilla from Nora’s Kitchen (norasthekitchen.hk on Instagram). When we’re too rushed to cook, we can get some authentic Mexican from her.
For a visitor, I would take them to Seventh Son (3/F, Wharney Hotel, 57-73 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai. Tel: 2892 2888) because of the authentic local food like turtle soup.
In France, I would suggest going to La Mirande (4 Place de l’Amirande, 84000 Avignon. Tel: +33 4 90 14 20 20). It’s an old, huge, famous palace, and been there for a long time. You cannot miss it. It’s now a hotel.
They do all the traditional Nice food that is authentic, like zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta, or the lemon tarts. You can really feel what old- school Nice food is all about.
