Savour homestyle Thai food on a lush terrace at Ruam in Wan Chai
- Ruam wins for its airy terrace and straightforward Thai food – like delicious duck curry – that is better than most Hong Kong restaurants
Hong Kong is not short of Thai restaurants. Kowloon City is an entire neighbourhood dominated by flavourful, traditional Thai eateries. And if you want something more contemporary, diners need only head to the likes of chef David Thompson’s Aaharn, in Tai Kwun, or Samsen in Wan Chai.
Attempting to straddle the line between the traditional and the contemporary is Ruam. The newcomer takes over the old Koh Tai space on Ship Street, and the layout is similar with the same lush terrace space that transports you from frenetic Wan Chai. The name comes from the Thai for “to gather”, and the hope is that guests will savour the food but linger for drinks afterwards.
The menu is straightforward. If there’s not much in the way of surprises, there’s nothing to offend either. The moo ping, pork belly skewers (HK$78), served with jim jaew sauce, are incredibly moreish with the right balance of fat and meat. The spring rolls (HK$78) are unspectacular, but they are at least crispy compared to the several soggy versions found around town.
One dish that breaks the mould is the gaeng phed ped yang (HK$188), a red curry served with a duck leg cooked confit. It’s a winner. The skin is perfectly crisp – surprising given it is served in a curry sauce – and the meat deliciously tender.
If there’s one disappointment, it is the green mango salad (HK$148) topped with battered softshell crab. While the salad is adequate, and pleasingly spicy, the crab tastes oily.
Ruam does not rewrite the rule book when it comes to Thai restaurants in Hong Kong, but it has that winning terrace and the food is better than most. Put those two things together and you truly have a great place to gather.
Ruam, Shop 9, 1/F, J Senses, 60 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, 3160 8535
