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A sandwich at Bar Leone, which has been at the forefront of the Hong Kong bar scene’s shift towards high-quality food in line with consumers’ increasing demand for a holistic bar experience. Photo: Bar Leone

How bar food has evolved from chicken wings to wagyu and caviar, as bartenders look to impress with more than cocktails

  • Romans and ancient Greeks enjoyed mixing alcohol and food, but in modern times bar food has meant sliders, fries and chicken wings. Things are changing, though
  • Driven by customers’ evolving tastes, cocktail bars are expanding menus and using higher-quality ingredients to provide a holistic experience, and to stand out

Not so long ago, bar food would have referred to pretty much any of the following: beef sliders, truffle fries, chicken wings.

These three snacks constituted the holy trinity of most bar snack menus, alongside (especially if sipping a martini at a fancy five-star hotel) a generous selection of olives, honey-coated nuts or some form of charcuterie.

During my days bartending in London, one of the world’s cocktail capitals, I would impatiently await Sunday, my usual day off, to hang out at the city’s best watering holes for my weekly dose of negroni, daiquiri or martini, with no interest whatsoever in scrolling through the snacks menu.

Yet alcohol and cuisine have been flirting with each other since ancient times; the concept of communal eating and imbibing was prevalent in many cultures, not just with the Romans and Greeks.

Cocktails served with a meal. Alcohol and food have gone hand in hand since ancient times. Photo: Shutterstock

While the focus of these soirées was often the consumption of wine and other alcoholic beverages, simple foods like bread, olives and cheese were commonly served alongside the drinks.

In England, the Middle Ages saw the emergence of the public house, where the first examples of food prepared in bulk, such as stews, pies and roasted meats, were served up.

Chicken wings is one of the more traditional bar foods. Photo: Shutterstock
In northern Italy, towards the end of the 1800s, it was common to enjoy a few glasses of vermouth while nibbling on small sandwiches (tramezzini) or other finger foods before dinner time, thus giving rise to the famed practice known as aperitivo.

In the United States during prohibition, hosting cocktail parties at home became fashionable. The rise of these intimate events led to the popularisation of an increasingly wide selection of finger foods.

Hosts paraded luxurious bites such as lobster canapés, caviar rolls, crabmeat cocktails, devilled eggs and savoury cheese balls. Even after the 1933 repeal of the 18th Amendment, the practice of serving finger foods at restaurants, bars and cocktail parties lived on, quickly becoming a popular American culinary tradition.

Luxurious canapés and other finger foods became popular in the United States during Prohibition. Photo: Shutterstock

I can’t pinpoint the moment things changed and food programmes became fancier and highly important for a bar.

In recent years, however, I’ve sensed that there has been a significant shift in the approach.

First, consumer preferences have evolved, with a growing demand for a more diverse, sophisticated and enjoyable culinary experience overall.

A selection of drinks at Hong Kong cocktail bar The Aubrey. Customers these days want more diverse bar experiences, which is driving establishments to up their food game. Photo: The Aubrey
As a result, cocktail bars have expanded and upgraded their menus, including a wider range of options with better quality ingredients. Long live caviar, wagyu beef patties, locally produced vegetables and meats, but also fun bites such as tater tots, home-made nuggets and all the dips.

Not to be forgotten is how the rise of the craft cocktail has encouraged a more nuanced approach to pairing food and drinks. We often see collaborations between chefs and bartenders as evidence that the two worlds have come closer together.

Bar owners have started to create holistic experiences, whether it’s a dive bar or a high-end venue, where the storytelling and narrative of the space includes not only food and drinks but also branding and design.

A burger served at Hong Kong cocktail bar The Diplomat. Photo: Jonathan Wong

The integration of strong food programmes into the cocktail experience holds significant importance for both businesses and consumers. It encourages patrons to spend a longer time in a venue, leading to increased sales.

A unique and well-executed food programme can also differentiate a cocktail bar from its competitors, attracting a broader customer base.

For our patrons at Bar Leone, in Central, Hong Kong, the availability of good-quality food in a comfortable and casual setting enhances the sociability and enjoyment of the bar experience.

Sliders made with wagyu beef at Hong Kong bar Pete’s Place. Photo: Winson Wong

The fact that consumers can now get good-quality food in an unpretentious setting and at a lower price than at a restaurant has created new habits and, consequently, inspired new flexible business models.

The effects of the Covid-19 pandemic on consumer spending behaviour have had an impact on Hong Kong’s food scene and have seen a rise in popularity of venues where value, food and drink offerings, and vibe are all equally important.

The integration of food has become an essential aspect of the modern cocktail bar, enhancing the overall customer experience and contributing to the success and longevity of these establishments.

So, with no heavy heart, I’m saying goodbye to truffle fries.
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