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Hong Kong desserts: vegan cheesecake versus New York-style cheesecake – which tastes better?

STORYTracey Furniss
New York cheesecake with a crème brûlée topping at Morton’s of Chicago. Photo: Jonathan Wong
New York cheesecake with a crème brûlée topping at Morton’s of Chicago. Photo: Jonathan Wong
Veganism and vegetarianism

  • Cheesecake, whether New York-style at Morton’s of Chicago or VEDA’s vegan fig and cashew offering, is all about pairing flavours in a rich dessert. Or is it?

The cheesecake camp is split into two – New York made with cream cheese which is rich and creamy, and Italian made with ricotta, which is lighter and has a texture more like a cake.

But what about New York style versus vegan? VEDA’s district chef Alfonso Portillo has created a fig cheesecake made with cashews instead of cheese.

VEDA’s district chef Alfonso Portillo. Photo: Jonathan Wong
VEDA’s district chef Alfonso Portillo. Photo: Jonathan Wong
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“Normally, cheesecakes are made in the oven but this is a no-bake cheesecake, completely vegan with no egg and no flour, thus gluten-free too,” says Portillo.

 “Cashews blend well like cheese. Once the oil is removed it mixes well and is creamy. Agar Agar makes it firm and is sourced from seaweed. Cashew pairs well with fruits like figs and dry fruits like dates,” continues the chef, who works in fine dining as well as pastries.

Fig cheesecake – made with cashews instead of cheese – at VEDA in Central. Photo: Jonathan Wong
Fig cheesecake – made with cashews instead of cheese – at VEDA in Central. Photo: Jonathan Wong

“I enjoy imagining flavours and textures and how they pair well together. I can visualise and imagine them and create completely new combinations. I enjoy sharing my passion for food,” says Portillo, who started as a chef at a young age. And his best dessert memory?

“In New York, at a Mexican restaurant called Cosme I had a Big Meringue with creme and it had salt on top – a mix of savoury and sweet. It was a good contrast as well as textures and flavours which I believe are essential to a good dessert.

“That is what makes it the best treat for me. Crunchy, smooth, sweet, savoury – all in one, in perfect balance. That is what I aim to create as well.”

Pastry chef Lai Kin-wai, Morton’s of Chicago, Sheraton Hotel, Tsim Sha Tsui. Photo: Jonathan Wong
Pastry chef Lai Kin-wai, Morton’s of Chicago, Sheraton Hotel, Tsim Sha Tsui. Photo: Jonathan Wong
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