Why the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong’s executive pastry chef Ringo Chan is famous for baking the best panettone in town
Veteran pastry chef Ringo Chan has shared the secrets of his craft and the depth of experience that won him the title of Best Pastry Chef in 100 Top Tables 2020.
With three decades of experience under his belt, Chan, executive pastry chef at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, has worked at the flagship property since its pre-opening in 2005. His previous experience included The Regent Hong Kong, InterContinental Hong Kong and the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.
As a member of the Hong Kong Chefs Association’s Culinary National Team, chef Chan has taken part in numerous international competitions and garnered a slew of accolades. The only chef to be a committee member of both the Hong Kong Chefs Association and the Hong Kong Bakery & Confectionery Association, chef Chan prides himself on his role in nurturing young talent and handing down his pastry skills.
Which Hong Kong Michelin-star restaurants are offering home delivery?
“Among all the culinary disciplines, I discovered that pastry was the area where I could best express my creativity,” he said.
“My penchant for photography helped me develop a keen eye for colours, and the dessert-making process is about creating something delicious as well as beautiful.”
Chan describes his culinary style as modest and elegant. “My philosophy is ‘confectionery makes people happy’. Therefore presentation and flavour are equally important. As pastry chefs, we need to be creative and taste-sensitive. We need to always be open-minded in learning, staying positive with a humble attitude. These are the elements reflected in my work.”
Hong Kong’s Jumbo floating restaurants: a stroll down memory lane
The daily demands of overseeing the sweet treats at the Four Seasons Hotel keep him busy while staying creative. “In addition to the daily demands from hotel restaurants, there are themed afternoon teas, themed weddings and other special events in the hotel.
“Each occasion requires tailor-made pastries that align with the theme of the function or the restaurant identity. Although the creations are different, the core value of each item is the same – delicious and elegantly presented.
“The scone is my proudest creation,” Chan continues. “It is the soul of our famous afternoon tea in The Lounge. I created my special recipe 15 years ago, when the hotel had just opened, and it is a perfect recipe as a result of many sleepless nights and endless trial and error.
“I spent a week fine-tuning the scones, testing different ingredients, methods, portions, temperature and baking timing to ensure the final product is the fluffiest and tastiest scone I’ve ever made.”
Chan may be better known for his panettone, however.
“There are two reasons our panettone is popular. Firstly, all the ingredients used are top quality, including butter from France, flour and candied fruits from Italy, eggs from Japan. Secondly, the sourdough starter we use for the panettone was created 15 years ago, the same time the Four Season’s Hong Kong opened. The dough then goes through a long fermentation and the whole process of making the panettone takes 22 hours. All this contributes to a fluffy and moist texture that everybody loves.
Why panettone is Italy’s sweetest Christmas mistake
“I would say flour is the most difficult ingredient to work with. You might think it is a simple ingredient, but the same kind of flour from different origins can vary greatly in terms of gluten level, flavour and the ability to absorb water. Therefore, it takes time to explore the perfect flour for a particular bakery item.”
“One of my most memorable moments happened at a competition in Perth, in Australia, in 2013. The dessert that I presented was kaffir lime, mango and coconut crémeux. This creation scored the gold award and best dessert. One of the guests came up to me with tears in her eyes and told me that the flavours of what I had made had moved her. She said: ‘Now I know where to find the most delicious desserts in Hong Kong!’
“This was one of the most rewarding moments of my entire career as a pastry chef.”
Want more stories like this? Sign up here. Follow STYLE on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Twitter .
Help us understand what you are interested in so that we can improve SCMP and provide a better experience for you. We would like to invite you to take this five-minute survey on how you engage with SCMP and the news.
The chef prides himself on his role in handing down his pastry skills – and reveals the ingredient that are most challenging to work with