Review: Old Bailey does justice to contemporary cuisine

Not everyone might have heard of JIA Group, but many will be familiar with the restaurants under its belt. They are known for sophisticated surroundings and fantastic contemporary cuisine, and many diners wait weeks to book a table for brunch at Duddell’s, or have spent a breezy afternoon at PMQ’s Aberdeen Street Social.

Old Bailey is the latest jewel in this dining group’s crown, and it’s set to shine. Situated in the JC Contemporary building in Tai Kwun, Hong Kong’s most anticipated revitalisation project, the restaurant is poised to get the best of both worlds – being positioned at the hottest address in town for visitors and locals, but not constrained by the necessary though cumbersome rules and restrictions that come with doing business at a heritage site.

After a bit of navigation we get to the back of the Tai Kwun complex and enter a modern space designed by Swiss architects Herzog & De Meuron, with views of Central from its floor-to-ceiling windows.

We begin our meal with a One Rice Thousand Gold cocktail (HK$120), a mix of hojicha, Chivas whisky, rice milk and tonka beans – among other things. This drink sets the tone for the evening to come, as the Asian flavours are complemented by the western ingredients. The smoky hojicha introduces the fragrance of whisky while the vanilla notes of tonka beans round off any alcoholic bite.

First to arrive is the Longjing tea-smoked pigeon (HK$188). The presentation in a copper birdcage glass cover is dramatic, and the smoke fumes released by lifting the cover are a little overpowering. However, this notion is thrown to the wayside when you bite into the succulent meat, with its fragrant and crispy skin. The addition of deep-fried tea leaves as garnish enhances the tea flavour and ensures it’s not lost to smoking. This item is delicious and as well-balanced as a perfectly feng-shuied house.