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Review / We review L’Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong, where French cuisine reaches new heights

STORYTracey Furniss
The interior of L'Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong, which features a stunning, central screen with a hand-painted silk covering.
The interior of L'Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong, which features a stunning, central screen with a hand-painted silk covering.
Where to eat in Hong Kong

New hotel’s restaurant, helmed by chef Oliver Elzer, offers contemporary French cuisine, including a choice of tasting menu options

Everything about the St. Regis Hong Kong, which opened last month in Wan Chai, on Hong Kong Island, screams gorgeous: from the decor to the restaurants.

L’Envol is the hotel’s French fine dining eatery – the name, meaning “the flight” in French, referencing aircraft taking off and the soaring start of a memorable meal. And, the experience did not disappoint.

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Milk-fed veal fillet in tilleul and wasabi veal head, which forms past of the tasting menu served at L’Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong.
Milk-fed veal fillet in tilleul and wasabi veal head, which forms past of the tasting menu served at L’Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong.

Chef Olivier Elzer, previously with Seasons by Olivier E and L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, creates contemporary French dishes, which change with the seasons.

Chef Olivier Elzer of L’Envol, who creates contemporary French dishes which change with the seasons.
Chef Olivier Elzer of L’Envol, who creates contemporary French dishes which change with the seasons.

The 64-seat dining room is arranged across two salons filled with natural light, which are divided by a floor-to-ceiling stone and glass screen, creating an intimate space.

At the centre of the screen is a hand-painted silk wall covering, with splashes of gold expressing the artistry of the cuisine.

The soft palette and subtle pattern, accentuated by curved shapes and luxurious woven upholstery, evoke images of glamorous Parisian dining.

The soft palette and subtle patterns of [the dividing screen at l’Envol] evoke images of glamorous Parisian dining, which are accentuated by curved shapes and luxurious woven upholstery
 
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