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Which Hong Kong and Macau restaurants kept – and which lost – their rank in the Michelin Guide 2020 edition?

Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2020 awarded new restaurants with Michelin stars and took some stars away. Photo: Handout

As the dust settles on another Michelin award ceremony for the 12th edition of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau 2020, which took place on December 17 at the Grand Hyatt Macau, it was exciting to see who was on the revered list this year. However, as always, I was left wondering why some obvious choices were ignored, and why some went down in rank.

The Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2020 mascot Photo: Handout

The usual suspects retained their three star status: Caprice, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Lung King Heen, 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Hong Kong, T’ang Court and Sushi Shikon in Hong Kong and Jade Dragon, Robuchon au Dôme and The Eight in Macau. And a deserved new addition joining the upper echelons this year is Cantonese restaurant Forum in Causeway Bay.

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Michelin-star chef Alvin Leung in his Wan Chai restaurant. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

One surprise, however, was Alvin Leung’s Bo Innovation; it dropped from three to two stars this year. With the chef’s creative flair and dishes with backstories relating to Hong Kong’s evolving cuisine, he is a unique talent and I believe he should have his three-star status back as soon as possible. Masterchef Canada’s Hong Kong “xtreme cuisine” restaurant had retained its three-star status for seven years and it deserves to keep them.

Shane Osborn is the chef patron of Arcane in Central. Photo: Edward Wong

It was also a bit of a shock Shane Osborn’s modern European eatery, Arcane, and Vicky Cheng’s VEA did not make the two-star list this year, although they retained their one Michelin-star status.

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Chef Vicky Cheng at VEA on 198 Wellington Street in Central. Photo: Roy Issa

The execution, artistry, quality ingredients and service in these two restaurants are heads above many other restaurants in Hong Kong, so come on Michelin, I think they are worthy.

Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2020 finally awarded one star to Gaddi's. Photo: Handout

I was happy to see Michelin has discovered Gaddi’s at last. The city’s first Western fine dining restaurant, which opened in 1953 at The Peninsula Hong Kong, has been a favourite among local gourmands for its top notch cuisine, excellent service and ambience, and now, Michelin has included the French restaurant on its list, earning a well-deserved one star.

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Master chef Leung Fai-hung of Hoi King Heen is deserving of a star. Photo: Handout

But again, I wonder why such obviously amazing restaurants were left off the list. Hoi King Heen for instance. It was awarded one star from 2011 to 2013 but not since. Who can resist master chef Leung Fai-hung’s crispy pork belly stuffed with egg yolk or his steamed grouper rolls with Yunnan ham, as he refines Chinese cooking and uses top quality ingredients and seasonal products. I say, bring back that star!

Yi at Morpheus in Macau features home-made rice noodles with pork intestines and pork ears. Photo: Handout

Then there is Yi at Morpheus in Macau. Most foodies have given it a thumbs up since it opened a year ago. With the restaurant’s unique approach to regional cuisine – in which the chefs put together a multi-course menu based on what they find in the market each day – and the excellent dishes they create from that produce, I think they deserve to be recognised. The wine pairing and service also make the experience amazing.

Executive chef Agustin Balbi at Haku in Harbour City has not been awarded a star, despite being voted a top chef by fellow chefs. Photo: Edmond So

Another restaurant I believe should be considered next time is Haku. Come on, Michelin – chef Agustin Balbi debuted at number 87 on the Best Chef Awards announced in Spain this year. That means fellow chefs voted him in the top 100 in the world. He must be doing something right.

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Kaluga Queen hybrid caviar with botan shrimp tartare, sea urchin and crustacean jelly by Le Pan, at Goldin Financial Global Centre, Kowloon Bay. Photo: Roy Issa

Then there is Le Pan over in Kowloon Bay, which might not be the most convenient location but chef Edward Voon makes a mean Kaluga Queen caviar with sea urchin, botan shrimp and crustacean jelly. Really, it is worth the trip.

Le Pan, at Goldin Financial Global Centre, Kowloon Bay. Photo: Roy Issa

The decor is pretty awesome, too; its expansive white marble interior may not be to everyone’s taste, and I think if they put some greenery around to break it up, the restaurant would feel a tad warmer. But still, I believe they should be awarded a star next year.

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