The Murray, Hong Kong, 22 Cotton Tree Drive, Central

3141 8888

Popinjays, on The Murray Hong Kong’s rooftop, has a sizeable bar and fine dining restaurant, as well as a wraparound patio with uninterrupted city views. The name Popinjays is associated with birds such as parrots and woodpeckers. The cocktails too, have a bird theme, such as Blue Macaw
(HK$140) – a tropical fruit cocktail with a base of Pontelobos mescal, and Peking Order (HK$120) which is tom yum-infused rum with yuzu, elderflower, lime and mint soda.

We tried a few good bar snacks such as foie gras with gingerbread brioche (HK$90) and black cod croquettes with tartare sauce, (HK$95/3 pieces).

The main dining room is light and airy. The stylish interior, designed by Foster + Partners, comes in cool greys, gold accents and bold blues. It seats 114 diners, with 14 in the private dining area, known as The Aviary.

The chef de cuisine, Didier Quennouelle offers modern European cuisine. We start with a light and refreshing king langoustine tartare with yuzu-marinated yogurt and pickled dashi (HK$330). I was not a fan of the vitello tonnato, milk-fed veal tenderloin with yellowfin tuna and gremolata (HK$260). For mains, the roast Vendée pigeon with beetroot, Savoy cabbage, blackberries and kalamata olives (HK$550) hit the spot. The pigeon was tender and juicy while the skin was crispy. The salt, sour, bitter, sweet flavours were well-balanced and complemented the pigeon well.

The dish was paired with a 2014 Famiglia Bianchi Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina. For dessert, the caramelised golden apple cheesecake (HK$130) which was deconstructed, consisted of a rich butter biscuit topped with light cream cheese and caramelised fruit slices and green apple brandy sauce, vanilla gelato and cinnamon crumble.